Haley's Comet 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Lance Alred & Jason Torlano |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Oct 17, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Haley's Comet
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Haley's Comet ascends the arête on the far left edge of the Manure Pile Buttress. Fun face climbing past 4 good bolts to a 2-bolt anchor shared with Jump for Joy.
Although the route is bolted, it is not really a "sport" climb, as there are only 4 protection bolts in 65 feet. A fall before clipping the second bolt would likely result in a ground fall. As such, I have given it a "PG-13" rating.
If you are not up for leading the route, it is possible to scramble up the gully to the left with a section of 4th class terrain, do one single rope rap down to the anchors. One more rap gets you to the ground.
Protection 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
| Comments on Haley's Comet |
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b PG13
| Fantastic route, three stars if it were anywhere other than Yosemite. The crux is indeed between the first two bolts with groundfall potential, and harder than any .10a move I've ever done. This route is very sustained and requires a lot of technique normally not found on face/slab climbs. Fun and challenging! |
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.10a PG13
| Great slab climb. Keep your head in check between bolt 1 and 2. Cripping and high stepping. The rest of the climb is a sendfest. |
By oliver kollar
From: Citrus Heights,Ca
Feb 1, 2011
| Crux is hard, and between bolt 1 and 2. Fell and came 3' from groundfall. Weird and technical slab. A great mix of mantels, crimp pimping, and bad smears..... |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b PG13
| The bolts at the top of the route (midway down the face) could use some maintenance. One looks to be an old buttonhead (?) and the newer bolt has a spinning hangar with a loose nut. It was halfway off the projecting bolt shaft when we came by the anchor! |
By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| footwork is key here. muscles simply wont see you through the climb. feet are solid. |
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