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 ADVANCED
Manure Pile Buttress (aka Ranger Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Seven T 
After Six T 
C.S. Concerto T 
Commissioner Buttress T 
Fecophilia T 
Haley's Comet T 
Jump for Joy T,TR 
Just Do-do It T 
Nutcracker T 
Nutcracker 5.9 Start Variation T 
Renus Wrinkle T 

Haley's Comet 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lance Alred & Jason Torlano
Page Views: 1,136
Submitted By: M.Morley on Oct 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Haley's Comet

Description 

Haley's Comet ascends the arÍte on the far left edge of the Manure Pile Buttress. Fun face climbing past 4 good bolts to a 2-bolt anchor shared with Jump for Joy.

Although the route is bolted, it is not really a "sport" climb, as there are only 4 protection bolts in 65 feet. A fall before clipping the second bolt would likely result in a ground fall. As such, I have given it a "PG-13" rating.

If you are not up for leading the route, it is possible to scramble up the gully to the left with a section of 4th class terrain, do one single rope rap down to the anchors. One more rap gets you to the ground.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.


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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Fantastic route, three stars if it were anywhere other than Yosemite. The crux is indeed between the first two bolts with groundfall potential, and harder than any .10a move I've ever done. This route is very sustained and requires a lot of technique normally not found on face/slab climbs. Fun and challenging!
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
Nov 14, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Great slab climb. Keep your head in check between bolt 1 and 2. Cripping and high stepping. The rest of the climb is a sendfest.
By oliver kollar
From: off the couch, CA
Feb 1, 2011

Crux is hard, and between bolt 1 and 2. Fell and came 3' from groundfall. Weird and technical slab. A great mix of mantels, crimp pimping, and bad smears.....
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Apr 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

The bolts at the top of the route (midway down the face) could use some maintenance. One looks to be an old buttonhead (?) and the newer bolt has a spinning hangar with a loose nut. It was halfway off the projecting bolt shaft when we came by the anchor!
By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Jul 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

footwork is key here. muscles simply wont see you through the climb. feet are solid.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 12, 2014

Good Face climbing and slab work throughout the pitch. Friend took a couple good falls between bolt one and two and always landed a couple feet off the deck, so make sure you keep a nice belay. Really fun single pitch climb while burning time waiting for the classic multi pitches!