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 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hairy Devil 

WI5+ M6-7 R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus: WI5+ M6-7 [details]
FA: Steve House and Josh Wharton, 1/14/14
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: j wharton on Jan 18, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: JW leading the second pitch of the Hairy Devil.

Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a direct (1.5 pitches) start to "The Demon" that is completely independent from The Talisman. We thought it was quite good and worthy of traffic. It has Colorado "mixed" climbing with ice and Scottish style hummocks for a change! As long as the small pillar on The Demon is there, it should always be climbable.

P1: Climb an obvious ramp/crack feature 20 meters left of Talisman's first pitch to a nice belay by a small pine. Numerous frozen hummocks, aka the "Hairy Devils", towards the top of this pitch provide some security but also make protection difficult. Pins are nice. This pitch is a little steeper and more awkward than it first appears, M6-ish R, 60 meters.

P2: Move left from the belay, and go up the obvious seam (fixed angle), and join the pillar of The Demon, passing another fixed pin, and small roof above the pillar. Belay in a small alcove above the roof on small gear and screws, or stretch the rope all the way to the trees. This pitch is a little more technical, and steeper than pitch one but has mostly good gear, M6-7, 50 or 60 meters.

P3: Traverse across the top of The Talisman, and rappel with two ropes off tress.

Location 

This is just left of The Talisman to the south Camp Bird Road.

Protection 

Set and a half of cams, set of wires, 4-ish pitons, and 6-ish screws.


Photos of Hairy Devil Slideshow Add Photo
Looking at the pillar-pitch of the Demon at the top of our Hairy Devil variation.
Looking at the pillar-pitch of the Demon at the to...
The route lines for The Demon and the Hairy Devil. The Demon followed the first two pitches of The Talisman before traversing left to the dagger. The Talisman continues up and right the main ice flow.
BETA PHOTO: The route lines for The Demon and the Hairy Devil....
JW ascending the pillar of the Demon.
JW ascending the pillar of the Demon.
JW starting pitch two of the Hairy Devil with a climber high on the Talisman.
JW starting pitch two of the Hairy Devil with a cl...
The fixed pin we found under the roof of the Demon Pitch.
The fixed pin we found under the roof of the Demon...

Comments on Hairy Devil Add Comment
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By Steve House
Jan 18, 2014

Save some thin pitons and small gear (0 Metolius), small nuts, for the anchor in the somewhat junky crack behind the small (7 foot?), skinny spruce tree. You can get a decent anchor on this big, comfy ledge, but it takes some work. Be warned though, this is proper M6. By comparison, I think BBB or The Talisman are both about M5 (5.7). The first pitch feel 5.9ish, and the second pitch feels 5.10ish.