WI5+ M6-7 R
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
|Original: ||WI5+ M6-7 R [details]|
|FA: ||Steve House and Josh Wharton, 1/14/14|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,668|
|Submitted By: ||j wharton on Jan 18, 2014|
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The fixed pin we found under the roof of the Demon...
This is a direct (1.5 pitches) start to "The Demon" that is completely independent from The Talisman
. We thought it was quite good and worthy of traffic. It has Colorado "mixed" climbing with ice and Scottish style hummocks for a change! As long as the small pillar on The Demon is there, it should always be climbable.
P1: Climb an obvious ramp/crack feature 20 meters left of Talisman's
first pitch to a nice belay by a small pine. Numerous frozen hummocks, aka the "Hairy Devils", towards the top of this pitch provide some security but also make protection difficult. Pins are nice. This pitch is a little steeper and more awkward than it first appears, M6-ish R, 60 meters.
P2: Move left from the belay, and go up the obvious seam (fixed angle), and join the pillar of The Demon, passing another fixed pin, and small roof above the pillar. Belay in a small alcove above the roof on small gear and screws, or stretch the rope all the way to the trees. This pitch is a little more technical, and steeper than pitch one but has mostly good gear, M6-7, 50 or 60 meters.
P3: Traverse across the top of The Talisman
, and rappel with two ropes off tress.
This is just left of The Talisman
to the south Camp Bird Road.
Set and a half of cams, set of wires, 4-ish pitons, and 6-ish screws.
Looking at the pillar-pitch of the Demon at the to...
JW ascending the pillar of the Demon.
JW starting pitch two of the Hairy Devil with a cl...
BETA PHOTO: The route lines for The Demon and the Hairy Devil....
BETA PHOTO: JW leading the second pitch of the Hairy Devil.
By Steve House
Jan 18, 2014
Save some thin pitons and small gear (0 Metolius), small nuts, for the anchor in the somewhat junky crack behind the small (7 foot?), skinny spruce tree. You can get a decent anchor on this big, comfy ledge, but it takes some work. Be warned though, this is proper M6. By comparison, I think BBB or The Talisman are both about M5 (5.7). The first pitch feel 5.9ish, and the second pitch feels 5.10ish.