|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||John Sherman, ??|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008|
|Comments on Hairlip BJ Ecstasy||Add Comment|
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By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
May 21, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The strangeness of this route's name is almost commensurate to the climbing it involves. The rock quality to start is not great, but gets better as you approach the roof via fun, thoughtful climbing. The moves over the roof are bizarre (beta spoiler: they involve making a big dynamic move from a heel hook too a somewhat insecure handjam). After the roof the climbing stays hard and doesn't really let up until some nice jugs at the very end. As for the rating: the guide that I was working off of (Geir's topo, I believe?) had it listed as .11b. Using Histoplasmosis as a benchmark, .11b is a total sandbag (unless there's some different beta that I missed, or you have extremely long arms). Overall a really good route that's both burly and perplexing.
Doubles to #3 will give you plenty of options. Stoppers and medium-sized hexes also came in handy.