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Go out the big roof right of Jolly Jug
via ugly, chipped holds. This is a disgrace, but what are you gonna do? It's pretty fun movement anyway. The crux involves a sidepull crimp and a weird mantle-type thing, which can be avoided by moving left onto Jolly Jug
. Rolofson thinks the direct way is .12d, but that seems soft even for the Sport Park. Whatever.
9 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor.
By Mark Rolofson
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I believe I was the person that introduced Kaelen Williams to this crag & this route. I feel I should defend this climb & critique this post. First, calling these manufactured holds ugly is a matter of opinion & one I don't share. This climb is a masterpiece with big moves & fun holds to climb on. The large hueco in the ceiling looks natural. As for this route & others at the Clock Tower that have some manufactured holds, I have enjoyed many days of great training here. Where I don't usually advocate such tactics as the liberal use of chipping or manufacturing holds, this crag was a pile covered black shit below the blank overhangs. Chris & Rick turned this crag into a wonderful sport crag. The tactics used here aren't appropriate at most crags or routes, but in a free society, there is room enough for such climbs to exist just like we have different religions, political views, & porn.
As for the crux getting over the lip, the direct line is the intended line done by the first ascentionist. These funky moves are on natural holds. I have only redpointed the climb once this way & normally take the indirect line. As for the grade, the direct line is .12c/d versus the indirect line is .12b. The direct line may be easier if you are short, but the dynos getting to here won't be. The indirect line at the lip, moves left to Jolly Jug for a final dyno & then steps back right onto Hair Shirt, using all the same bolts. Where I do use a few holds on Jolly Jug, it is not the same moves as on that route as I am further right.