Mike Carville's Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe guide mistakenly shows this route to be Palsy (5.9). Palsy climbs the dihedral around the corner to the right and has a direct start (10a/b) that starts 5' or so right of this route and shares a few holds.
This route is a wonderful face climb that follows a beautiful narrow band of rock from the ground all the way to the anchors. The climbing is steep, continuous, and thin. The bolts are a bit far apart and poorly placed as they are mostly out of reach from any decent stand. Holds are scarce as it is and the clipping of a couple bolts require very dicey stances. The crux is getting past the 4th bolt to the 5th and to the anchors although the climb is pretty much all of a crux.
This route is on the way right side of the North Face of Snowshed. It is the most obvious climb characterized as a narrow band of vertical face with an off-width crack just left of it (Hair Shirt .8). An easy walk off down and left as you face the road.
This route is protected by 6 bolts with a two bolt anchor just before topping out. Some small cams help protect moves reaching the second bolt.
Unknown Face left of Palsy... the photo is foresho...
|By Paul Rezucha|
Oct 18, 2006
Although I didn't make this climb to the top I felt that it is very worth posting so that others wouldn't get sandbagged as I did from reading the guidebook. If someone knows the name, grade, and any other information, please either email me or post it here and I will correct my posting. Although I felt getting stood at the first bolt to be very difficult, the climbing is very sustained all the way to the 4th bolt which is where my fingers and arms gave out. I used the left edge which I assume is in bounds otherwise it would be VERY hard. The right edge to too far away if you want to follow the bolts. Where do others believe the crux to be? Also, double ropes would be very useful here as the bolts are hard to clip and are quite far apart!
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Paul, you are right.
This is a thin hard route. I think perhaps Victor Marcus put it up. I give it an 11d/12a grade for the cranker moves near the anchors. DO NOT confuse it with Palsy. I watched someone sandbag themselves horrendously and almost take a very bad fall using the guidebook beta.
|By John Jackson|
Dec 20, 2007
Name of this route is "HAIR AND NOW" .11c
FA Eric Pearlman / John Hoffman
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Prolly mid 90s. I think it was a TR for eons...
|By Joe Dawson|
May 12, 2009
Hardest 5.9 I ever warmed up on.
Jul 8, 2009
Um not to be mean or anything but this route is actually called On Edge 5.11c by eric pearlmen, i talkd to him about it shortly after i did it. And he said that carivals guidbook mixed the route name up.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Jun 2, 2012
I've seen Disciples of the New Wave rated 5.11b/c. If that holds, this route is significantly harder than Disciples. I would agree with 11d/12a as is suggested. Sustained, thin, great moves, and something I will probably never lead as it would really be On Edge as Urs reports the true name.
It seems to me a top rope anchor alone (shared with Palsy) would probably have sufficed since I have never seen anybody lead it. Maybe I just miss seeing all those numerous ascents. Idle conjecture, nothing personal.