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Hails Bails 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JSt, Eric Murdock
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: Jimbo on Sep 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jimbo launching into a 5.10 ground up, FA runout o...

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Original attempt was denied due to hail, sleet and rain, in August!
    It was lead ground up on both occasions.



    Location 

    On the West side of Raven A.
    Climbs the center of the buttress through two roofs between Ichabod Crane and Rumple Stiltkin. Joins Rumple Stiltkin above the plated face near the top. We put a new bolt next to one of the very old and rusty 1/4 inchers. We left all three of the old bolts so people can appreciate the way they did it back in the day.
    The route is much steeper than it looks.
    2nd roof is awesome fun climbing while the 1st is thought provoking.
    Rappel from 2 bolt anchor into the gully between Raven A and Murray Wall. You can rappel to the very bottom of the gully and avoid the short easy down climb if you have a 70 meter rope.

    Protection 

    Gear to 2.5 inches, a few long slings and 3 bolts just where you really want them.


    Photos of Hails Bails Slideshow Add Photo
    Jimbo drilling overhead on the steepest section of the ground up FA. 3 bolts were placed on the FA. One backed up an old, rusted, 1/4" Leeper where the route joins Rumple Stiltkin.
    Jimbo drilling overhead on the steepest section of...
    Jimbo in the middle of the first hard section just before the rain and hail hit and he had to lower off.  There is now a bolt at this point but it wasn't there when this photo was taken.
    Jimbo in the middle of the first hard section just...

    Comments on Hails Bails Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Geir
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Sep 19, 2010
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    definitely a bold ground up ascent with its tricky gear. congrats jim on your efforts, particularly in the rain!

    step back a way before doing this route and take note of the location of the two bolts visible from the ground, this will help you zero in on the route. after the second bolt pull the roof and trend a bit left as you climb up to locate the last bolt on the climb. a few relic bolts have been left in place near this final bolt, they are really neat to check out.

    expect some solid 5.10 climbing with a few challenging placements on this one. the moves over the second roof are really fun!