|270 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b/c [details]|
|FA: ||JSt, Eric Murdock|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By: ||Jimbo on Sep 3, 2010|
Jimbo launching into a 5.10 ground up, FA runout o...
Original attempt was denied due to hail, sleet and rain, in August!
It was lead ground up on both occasions.
On the West side of Raven A.
Climbs the center of the buttress through two roofs between Ichabod Crane and Rumple Stiltkin. Joins Rumple Stiltkin above the plated face near the top. We put a new bolt next to one of the very old and rusty 1/4 inchers. We left all three of the old bolts so people can appreciate the way they did it back in the day.
The route is much steeper than it looks.
2nd roof is awesome fun climbing while the 1st is thought provoking.
Rappel from 2 bolt anchor into the gully between Raven A and Murray Wall. You can rappel to the very bottom of the gully and avoid the short easy down climb if you have a 70 meter rope.
Gear to 2.5 inches, a few long slings and 3 bolts just where you really want them.
Jimbo drilling overhead on the steepest section of...
Jimbo in the middle of the first hard section just...
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 19, 2010
rating: 5.10 PG13
definitely a bold ground up ascent with its tricky gear. congrats jim on your efforts, particularly in the rain!
step back a way before doing this route and take note of the location of the two bolts visible from the ground, this will help you zero in on the route. after the second bolt pull the roof and trend a bit left as you climb up to locate the last bolt on the climb. a few relic bolts have been left in place near this final bolt, they are really neat to check out.
expect some solid 5.10 climbing with a few challenging placements on this one. the moves over the second roof are really fun!