Haidhofer Schlossbergwand Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: From left to right: Hoor auf de Zähn (8+), Klamms...
A nice, quiet little summer crag. The rock is mostly shaded by the trees, keeping it nice and cool. Additionally, it either stays dry or dries quickly, since when I went it started raining right after we arrived and we climbed anyway. The routes in the middle are slightly overhanging and are more difficult, while the routes on either side are easy. There are 10 routes in total and they offer a wide variety of difficulty. The climbing offers a little of everything.
Haidhof lies just south of Egloffstein and the main road lies to one side of the town. Park in Haidhof and cross said main road (right goes to Thuisbrunn, left to Mittelehrenbach) onto a dirt road headed downhill. After 200m or so you'll see a bench under a tree where you'll go left. In about 150m head right and right again between the shed and hut. Follow this about 70m up to the forest road, go right and follow this up and then left around the hill for 160m until you see a very steep, climber's trail headed uphill on the right. There's a wooden bridge up there that you'll go under (you can see it from the forest road) and stay to the right to find the crag. The hike is approximately 10min.
Climbing Season For the Frankenjura area.
Weather station 16.6 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Haidhofer Schlossbergwand
Glatt und lieblich 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Europe
: ... : Haidhofer Schlossbergwand
The Schwertner guidebook makes a funny comment about this that the name is an oxymoron: "Sleek and lovely", where "glatt" is used in climbing to describe a wall of sleek, solid rock, ie. with no holds.The climb follows a crack on the right and holds and bolts on the left, so rack your draws to the left. The climb otherwise has a technical slab feel to it, but I've climbed other technical slabs which felt way harder than 8- and were rated 5.10, thus I gave this a 5.11a. The crux is at the 4th bol...[more] Browse More Classics in International