|Type:||Ice, 1 pitch, 180'|
|FA:||Bill Widrig and Tad Welch 3/93|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Zagorda on Sep 26, 2008|
|Comments on Haggis and Cold Toast||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 22, 2012
rating: WI3+ PG13
|This is one of those climbs that can change dramatically depending on the condition. In general it is pretty difficult for a 3+ and usually contains around 20' of nearly vertical and thin ice. I would suggest being comfortable with making stemming moves on rock. In my experience it is not "necessary" to make moves on rock but extremely helpful. If it's thin bring a few cams and nuts to protect. If you want to climb with one rope it is possible to walk off climbers' left from the top with a few short sections of tree/moss down-climbing. Overall this climb is outstanding if you're confident above the stated grade. I would probably be pretty fearful leading this if just breaking into 3/3+.|
By Bill Kirby
From: Baltimore Maryland
Mar 23, 2013
One word.. Awesome! This route was usually fat at this time. A few dry tool moves at the beginning protected by a pin. low angle snow to good vertical ice (at this time) then comes the victory lap to the top. You end up climbing over a tree at the top. New rap anchor!
+1 Simon's comments. The mixed moves are easy but mandatory. You will be climbing better balanced if you stem off the rock on the middle section. This makes screw placements or cleaning much easier.
Be cool if you park across from Roaring brook. Don't ruin access for the rest of us!