Haggis and Cold Toast
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The route climbs a narrow chimney that starts off easy, ascends a steep and tight section of about 30 ft (crux) and eases off for the top out. The crux can be awkward and a bit overhanging, especially on the right side where there is a small ledge that provides a spot to rest, but makes the finish of the crux more difficult. The left side is more steep and direct as long as there is enough ice to climb it.
The previously described approach from the Ausable Club Trailhead parking lot (across Rt 73 from Roaring Brook Falls) is illegal, as it crosses AMR property and is patrolled. Use one of these options:
(a) Hike down from Chapel Pond; long, but allows you to attempt other climbs in the canyon.
(b) Park at Roaring Brook Falls. Walk up Route 73 (towards Chapel Pond) to the end of the guard rail on the south side of the road. Jump the guard rail and follow the clearly-marked state/AMR property boundary uphill to the corner post, then downhill to a frozen swamp. Continue up-canyon and you'll be directly across from the climb. The route is hidden in a deep chimney, and you can't see it until you are directly in front of the buttress.
You need double ropes to rap down in one shot. Otherwise some downclimbing will be required below the crux to reach a pin on the right side of the chimney to continue the rap.
|Comments on Haggis and Cold Toast
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 22, 2012
This is one of those climbs that can change dramatically depending on the condition. In general it is pretty difficult for a 3+ and usually contains around 20' of nearly vertical and thin ice. I would suggest being comfortable with making stemming moves on rock. In my experience it is not "necessary" to make moves on rock but extremely helpful. If it's thin bring a few cams and nuts to protect. If you want to climb with one rope it is possible to walk off climbers' left from the top with a few short sections of tree/moss down-climbing. Overall this climb is outstanding if you're confident above the stated grade. I would probably be pretty fearful leading this if just breaking into 3/3+.
From: Baltimore Maryland
Mar 23, 2013
One word.. Awesome! This route was usually fat at this time. A few dry tool moves at the beginning protected by a pin. low angle snow to good vertical ice (at this time) then comes the victory lap to the top. You end up climbing over a tree at the top. New rap anchor!
+1 Simon's comments. The mixed moves are easy but mandatory. You will be climbing better balanced if you stem off the rock on the middle section. This makes screw placements or cleaning much easier.
Be cool if you park across from Roaring brook. Don't ruin access for the rest of us!