|Type:||Ice, 1 pitch, 180'|
|FA:||Bill Widrig and Tad Welch 3/93|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Zagorda on Sep 26, 2008|
|Comments on Haggis and Cold Toast||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jan 22, 2012
rating: WI3+ PG13
|This is one of those climbs that can change dramatically depending on the condition. In general it is pretty difficult for a 3+ and usually contains around 20' of nearly vertical and thin ice. I would suggest being comfortable with making stemming moves on rock. In my experience it is not "necessary" to make moves on rock but extremely helpful. If it's thin bring a few cams and nuts to protect. If you want to climb with one rope it is possible to walk off climbers' left from the top with a few short sections of tree/moss down-climbing. Overall this climb is outstanding if you're confident above the stated grade. I would probably be pretty fearful leading this if just breaking into 3/3+.|
By Bill Kirby
From: Baltimore Maryland
Mar 23, 2013
One word.. Awesome! This route was usually fat at this time. A few dry tool moves at the beginning protected by a pin. low angle snow to good vertical ice (at this time) then comes the victory lap to the top. You end up climbing over a tree at the top. New rap anchor!
+1 Simon's comments. The mixed moves are easy but mandatory. You will be climbing better balanced if you stem off the rock on the middle section. This makes screw placements or cleaning much easier.
Be cool if you park across from Roaring brook. Don't ruin access for the rest of us!
By Stephen Bittner
Jan 15, 2015
Definitely reader Simon's comment if considering this route and you aren't comfortable at higher grades. The protection for the majority of the lower crux section was less than ideal, as the ice was full of air pockets. However, you can get a solid cam at a good rest if you look for it. The upper section is much easier but still no joke if you were to be pumped from the bottom portion. I found a nut placement up there as well.
I uploaded a photo to show what the crux section can look like. The other photo on here makes this route look tiny and mellow, so don't be fooled.
Now, if you are comfortable at high grades, you absolutely must climb this. It's my favorite ice climb in the Adirondacks.