Jeff Arliss pulling the first roof on Feast of Foo...
Along the Cliff
The Arrow Wall itself is a popular area, for good reason: it's packed with classic routes that travel over truly beautiful rock, including Three Doves
, Annie Oh!
, and Arrow
itself. Staying on the GT ledge, either in the Arrow
area or above Andrew (don't miss Moby Dick
), and climbing multiple upper pitches makes for a great day in this area.
This area starts at the height of land past the Thin Slabs
area, where you'll find Red Pillar
. The hits just keep coming: after Arrow
, look up to the huge roofs of Suppers Ready
, and the distinct roof and arete of Feast of Fools
that Hans' Puss
traverses so nicely. A few routes later you'll find a massive right-facing corner of Andrew
Meander on down the cliff: the next big left-facing corner is the classic airy 5.6 of Moonlight
, and up a short incline you'll find the big right-facing corner of Erect Direction
, with Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)
just to the right. We'll end this area at the far (right) end of the wall past CCK
, with the testpiece Modern Times
. Past this is the huge cleft and buttress of High Exposure
The trail to the Arrow Wall heads up just where the talus spills onto the carriage road as it jogs ever-so-slightly to the right (pic to follow in spring). CCK
and neighbors are approached by the next trail up from the carriage road (a picture will *really* help here) - it's the next trail after you spot the huge Twilight Zone roof, which is just next to Andrew
The Arrow wall sports bolts at the clifftop where Three Doves
and Annie Oh!
meet, and at Arrow
. There are bolts at the GT for Arrow
; you can rappel the cliff with one rope via the Arrow
bolts (watch rope ends on the last rappel), with minimal interference to ascending parties.
A pair of bolts is shared above the first pitch of Feast of Fools
and Hans' Puss
There is also a bolted rappel line at The Last Will Be First
(three rappels with one rope), and many routes have anchors on trees.
Back in days of yore, the Arrow rappel went from a tree on the buttress to the right of the route, hanging free for almost two ropes' worth.
: 5.8+, PG Red Pillar
: 5.5, G
Deep Lichen: 5.10, X
Hawkeye: 5.9+, PG Three Doves
: 5.8+, PG Annie Oh!
: 5.8, PG (**)
Road Less Travelled: 5.9-, PG Limelight
: 5.7, PG Arrow
: 5.8, PG (**)
Quiver: 5.9, PG Easy Verschneidung (Easy V)
: 5.2, G Cold Turkeys
: 5.9-, G Nurse's Aid
: 5.10, R Suppers Ready
: 5.12-, PG Hans' Puss
: 5.7, PG (**) Feast of Fools
: 5.10, PG (**)
Too Old to Know Better: 5.9, R Proctoscope
: 5.9+, PG
Snagglepuss: 5.8, PG Proctor Silex
: 5.9+, PG Silhouette
: 5.7+, PG-R
Man's Quest for Flight: 5.8, PG Traverse of the Clods
: 5.8, PG
Skeletal Remains: 5.11+, X
Twilight Zone: 5.7 A3, PG
The Best Things in Life Aren't Free: 5.12+ A4, PG Andrew
: 5.4, PG
Goldner's Grunge: 4, G
Android: 5.10-, PG Three Vultures
: 5.9, PG Face to Face
: 5.9, PG No Glow
: 5.9, PG
Shell Shock: 5.10+, PG
Wop Stop: 5.11-, PG Keep on Struttin'
: 5.9, PG-R Step Lively
: 5.9+, PG Moonlight
: 5.6, PG
Point-Blank: 5.12, R Erect Direction
: 5.10, PG
Crack'n-Up: 5.11+, PG-R Updraft
: 5.5, G Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK)
: 5.8, PG CCK Direct
: 5.9, PG Diana
: 5.8-, PG
Ken's Blind Hole: 5.6, PG Unholy Wick
: 5.8, G Lost and Found
: 5.7, PG The Last Will Be First
: 5.6, PG
Strolling on Jupiter: 5.10+, PG-R
Exit Stage Left: 5.9, PG Jim's Gem
: 5.8, PG Modern Times
: 5.8+, PG
Psychedelic: 5.8+, PG
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
40 Total Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for h. The Arrow Wall - CCK:
Andrew 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 280'
Moonlight 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Hans' Puss 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Limelight 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Arrow 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Annie Oh! 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Three Doves 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
CCK Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
No Glow 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Face to Face 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
Nurse's Aid 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Erect Direction 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b NY
: The Gunks
: ... : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Ask any climber what distinguishes the Gunks from other areas and the first thing they'll say is "the roofs!" That, or "the sandbags!" but you should look at the description of Coexistence for more info on that.Erect Direction is a roof climb -- and one of my favorites at the Gunks -- right up there with The Yellow Wall, Carbs and Caffeine, and Fat City Direct.The Erect Direction access trail is about 15 minutes walking from the Uberfall, and 10 minutes from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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