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Mike Amato high-stepping onto the arete at the thi...
This route start 15 feet right of "Consilience" and climbs an obvious blunt-arete to a two bolt anchor. The route climbs a lot better than it looks from the ground with a couple of hard moves on the arete. Cool moves up the arete to the crux near the fourth bolt. Reach a good two-finger pocket and one last hard move gets you to the anchor. Good route from the hard-working Mr. Kodas.
Six clips will get you to a two-bolt andchor
BETA PHOTO: Consilience.
Marga Powell at the crux between the third and fou...
Getting ready for the Arete.
|By Ray Snead|
Sep 1, 2003
Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket.
This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination?
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
An excellent pitch. Fun moves, clean rock. Sustained, thoughtful climbing from the fourth bolt to the top. The two-finger pocket is really good!Would be a three-star route if it were twice as long.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 23, 2005
Young Doug...I led this route, and my partner Kevin led its neighbor to the left. Both of us agree that this route was a full number-grade easier. We also both agree that this route was not as hard as Super Slab. Mmmm.
Sep 28, 2008
Along with Consilience and Kate Moss this climb rounds out a great trio of routes here. One can also rap from the top of Consilience to the anchors on Gyromancy and turn the 70 meter rap into 2 35 meter raps.
Sep 19, 2012
Decent climbing, but I spent more time trying to figure out how to clip the 5th bolt from a decent stance than climbing the rest of the route. Pay attention well in advance, or you can get a little bit hung out to dry (like me).