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Climb the first dihedral and roof of Snakebyte (5.11b) and then move right to a bolt where Snakebyte becomes a tiny crack above the roof. Continue up from the bolt to a large crack using a really loose jug, and top out above the large block.
While the first roof is quite fun, climbing up after the roof is garbage using an almost required loose large jug, and then a crack system that's not fun, and probably 5.7.
Pro from small to 3", with emphasis on pieces under 1 1/2". There is also one bolt on the route, and the top anchor is 2
|Comments on Gyro Gearloose
|By Alexander Nees|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I think this route deserves more than 1 star. Admittedly it's not a great natural line, linking the bottom half of Snake Bite into a higher crack system on the right using a bolt. But the climbing is fun and interesting in the linkup, the bolt is solid and well-placed, and I didn't notice any worryingly loose rock on the climb. The Grotto is a small area; if you've done most of the clear lines, this is a good one to fill out your visit with. 10c for the face moves at the bolt, easier both above and below.