Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AC Devil Dog 
Bandito 
Chicken Ranch Bingo 
Flight Simulator 
Go with the Flow 
Granted 
Gyro Gearloose 
Hole in the Wall 
Journey to Find the Sun 
Men's Crisis Center 
Moss Critique 
Prime Directive 
Rawhide 
Snake Bite 
Squealer 
Table Manners 
Table Manners - Left 
Three Fingered Jack 
To Pin or Not To Be 

Gyro Gearloose 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Apr 19, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Start in the Dihedral with the arrow pointed at it...
Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the first dihedral and roof of Snakebyte (5.11b) and then move right to a bolt where Snakebyte becomes a tiny crack above the roof. Continue up from the bolt to a large crack using a really loose jug, and top out above the large block.

While the first roof is quite fun, climbing up after the roof is garbage using an almost required loose large jug, and then a crack system that's not fun, and probably 5.7.


Protection 

Pro from small to 3", with emphasis on pieces under 1 1/2". There is also one bolt on the route, and the top anchor is 2



Comments on Gyro Gearloose Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I think this route deserves more than 1 star. Admittedly it's not a great natural line, linking the bottom half of Snake Bite into a higher crack system on the right using a bolt. But the climbing is fun and interesting in the linkup, the bolt is solid and well-placed, and I didn't notice any worryingly loose rock on the climb. The Grotto is a small area; if you've done most of the clear lines, this is a good one to fill out your visit with. 10c for the face moves at the bolt, easier both above and below.