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Gyro Captain 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Will Gadd & Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: Ted Lanzano on Jan 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin on a slopey mantle on the right side of the overhanging wall (same as for Mr. Spiffy). Then, traverse up and left a make several bouldery moves to the jug on the left side of the wall. Clip, make a tough move to get over the lip and then you're home free (home free if the top out is dry - a friend slipped on a snow patch close to the anchors and took a good fall). The original rating I saw for this route was 5.12 c/d, but I don't think its harder than 5.12b. To me it felt easier than Power Bulge, Quick Draws, and other Colorado 12cs. In any case, open for discussion.For harder variations, do the direct start to Gyro Captain (hard - called Rob's Direct Start, I think) or Mr. Spiffy (13a), which goes one bolt further to a challenging top out (see route description on this site). Although not entirely necessary, it was helpful to have a stick clip for the first bolt.

Protection 

Four quickdraws, plus two for the anchors


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By nick spoog
Jul 21, 2004

Seems to Spoog that it's hard to compare grades from one climbing area with grades of another climbing area. How about we compare the grade for a climb in one are to other climbs in the same area. (i.e., compare Gyro Captian to other climbs in Boulder Canyon). The result of within-climbing area grade comparison will of course be that some areas will have a reputation as soft and others as sandbagged, but hopefully there will be consistentcy within the climbing area (in this case Boulder Canyon).

(I'm on a bit of a crusade regarding my above comment and am hoping to persuade many to this way of thinking)..... what do you think?
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 21, 2004

I agree Bob. I am surprised that Ted calls this 12b. How hard do people feel the 13c a bit to the left is (I forget its name)?

bobl
By nick spoog
Jul 22, 2004

Just want clarify I am Nick Spoog and this is not Senor Samet (say Senor Samet with a French accent like the French castle guard in Monty Python's Holy Grail - it's kinda fun). Anyway, I've digressed.......oh yeah, I also wanna make it clear that Spoogie-mon made no quality or ratings comment concerning this climb. I've never even seen it.

P.S. - drum circle Friday night at theWasteland.... all are welcome.
By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2004

After doing the route earlier this winter, I felt it was around 12b. Maybe the bouldery and short nature of the climb just fit my style, not sure. In any case,it's a great line and worth climbing, especially if you dont like to hike, or have a lot of time.
By ac
Jul 24, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

12b.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 3, 2005

12b.