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Gypsy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Bragg and Ajax Green aug 1973
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 28, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Ran Glennon leads P4, Sprax belaying.
Photo by Mar...

Description 

It was hard for me to decide how many stars to give this one due to how overgrown the vegetation is. If it was nice and clean I feel like it would be four stars for sure; however, right now two stars is a bit if a stretch.

The moves are awesome, the route is super obvious and aesthetic, it just feels like a jungle experience. Though it is an R rated route, it seems like it wouldn't be too bad if the crack was cleaned out. People have done major cleaning in the past, and due to the location of the climb (a wet spot) and low traffic, the vegetation comes back quickly. As of July, 2009, it has again been cleaned and looks great.

Pitch 1: 5.7 Climb first pitch of Recompense until you get to a few pins below a corner. Many people belay here there first time up Recompense not realizing that there is a nice belay for that route around the corner. Back up the pins and belay from here.

Pitch 2: 5.7 Go up the corner above (fun) to a ledge, move up and left to belay level with the start of the chimney on Recompense.

Pitch 3: 5.9+R This is the money pitch. Move up and left through some broken blocky rock and back to the right to get in to the long corner. Climb on dirty jams and laybacks through the jungle of ferns and bushes that currently own the route. Eventually the crack widens to an off-width layback situation. It gets a bit pumpy here. There are gear possibilities through here but you will have to work for pro. Continue to a tree belay.

Pitch 4: Climb the final corner to the top (this is the same corner as Commando Run).


Location 

The next obvious corner right of Recompense (5.9). Start up Recompense then break on to Gypsy 2/3 up the first pitch.


Protection 

Normal rack plus perhaps some wide cams for the OW section, but they would be for convenience. There are other options.



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 8, 2009

the other day while climbing the prow i was looking over at Gypsy and it seems like someone did some MEGA cleaning on it and it looks perfect! and ready to climb... huge thanks to whoever did the cleaning, i cant wait to get back on it!!!

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 8, 2009

JIm some body.....local NC guide.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 8, 2009

Thanks jim somebody!!!

By Ethan Neff
Jul 14, 2009

Someone just pulled a large block off the route.
Info can be found at: NEClimbs Forum > General > Rock Climbing: Trad > Gypsy

By Zenith Zhang
From: Boston
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

In what universe is it a R climb? It's so well protected and with a long chimney in the middle part. One can rest in the chimney easily and place bomber protections.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 11, 2011

i got the "r" from the guide book... maybe they put it in there to keep the crowds off it haha...

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 1, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

Serious climbing on p. 2 & 3, not nearly as good as it looks. R for potential to fall on the perched boulder at p. 3 crux.