Crossing the Kern River to get to The Gym
The Gym area has got to be the best place to climb in the Lower Kern Canyon. The granite rock is solid and clean, and not very eroded from the river (good friction). It has about 12 bolted routes, and another 4 or so trad routes. Two of the bolted routes can use gear placement in section that have cracks, because there's only 1-2 bolts per route. Most of the routes have bolted belay anchors on top, and some share the same belay anchors.
The climbs range from 35 to 80 feet and levels from 5.4 to 5.12 although most are in the 5.10-5.11 range. The approach is pretty awesome, as it sits on the edge of the Kern River but on the opposite side of the HWY 178 making it accessible only during a low river flow. A raft is helpful when the flow is too high to wade across. Please be intelligent about crossing the river when the flow is high.
Distance is 10.5 miles on Highway 178 from the base of the canyon coming from Bakersfield. The approach is pretty awesome, as it sits on the edge of the Kern River but on the opposite side of the HWY 178 making it accessible only during a low river flow.
Climbing Season For the The Needles / Kern River area.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Gym, The
For The Weak At Heart 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
: Southern Sierra
: ... : Gym, The
This is a fun short route from people wanting to learn how to lead, or for practice on sport routes. The crux is right between the 1st and 2nd bolt, 15' up. The only bad thing is that loose gravel on top where the rappel bolts are. At the 4th bolt you can either stay in the crack going to the right, or traverse over to the face right under the rappel bolts. The crack is a bit harder, but a lot of fun....[more] Browse More Classics in CA