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Gutenberger Wall
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy Way Up, The 
Grandpappy 
Gutenberger Edge 
Gutenberger Wall Direct 
Gutenberger's Wall 
Lichen Us 
Right Up the Line 

Gutenberger Wall 


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Lat, Long: 38.39, -120.4 Map
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Gutenberger Wall

Description 

The wall across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport and mixed routes.

The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.


Getting There 

Follow the trail to Buck's Bar Dome and cross the river. Be careful crossing the smooth boulders and of high water during Spring.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gutenberger Wall:
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Grandpappy   5.9 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   
Right Up the Line   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Lichen Us   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Browse More Classics in Gutenberger Wall

Featured Route For Gutenberger Wall
Right up the line is between  Gutenberger Wall and Grizzly Green. NOT IN THIS PHOTO

Right Up the Line 5.9  CA : Sierra Foothills North : ... : Gutenberger Wall
Nice route with 3/8" bolts. Interesting little overlap at the start and nicely protected face/frictions above. The pitch above the long ledge is the stuff....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Gutenberger Wall Slideshow Add Photo
View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck's Bar Dome.

BETA PHOTO: View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck'...

Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cosumne River Gorge.

BETA PHOTO: Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cos...

The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing at the start of the "new" extra pitch for climbing the three sport routes on the right side of the Gutenberger Wall.

BETA PHOTO: The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing ...


Comments on Gutenberger Wall Add Comment
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By Dan Umber
From: Rohnert Park, Ca
Apr 10, 2008

I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 12, 2009

There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.

By justin01
Dec 10, 2011

We pulled the pin on the last pitch of the 5.7 direct. Just thought you all would like to know. My wife pulled it out with her fingers. Just above I got a decent yellow or orange tcu (can't remember). FYI. The pin was half buried and had a horizontal crack at the edge after we pulled it out.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013

The highline routes that have gone up since (at least?) 2011 have had a collateral benefit for us rock climbers. Now the rightmost sport lines on the Gutenberger Wall basically have an extra pitch. Instead of slogging up to the ledge mentioned in the guidebook and the older descriptions here on MP, you can leave the moss and dirt for a lower ledge system - about the same elevation as Grand Central, from what little I could see, and maybe 30 feet below the last rap station - and clip the multitude of highline bolts to belay your leader up a low angle, very mellow warm up pitch.

There, just added a photo showing bodies on the new starting ledge.