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Gutenberger Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dihedral Bypass T 
Easy Way Up, The T 
Got Gas? S 
Grandpappy T 
Gutenberger Edge S 
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 
Gutenberger's Wall T 
Lichen Us T 
Long Dong Arch T 
Right Up the Line T 
Sadam. Me? S 
Scud Buster S 
Tanks for the Memories S 
Trout Fishing in America S 

Gutenberger Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.6484, -120.70573 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,037
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the routes on the upper and middle wall...

Description 

The big dome across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport routes.

The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.

Routes from climber's left/upstream/east to right/downstream/west:

1. East Approach
The Pioneer Route (historic first recorded technical climb in the gorge, uses its own approach apart from all newer routes, looks as green and untouched today as it no doubt did then)

2. Slippery Central Approach

2.A. River Level Routes

Iraqi Wall (single pitch bolted routes)
Scud Buster (5.10c)
Sadam. Me?
Tanks for the Memories
Got Gas?
Long Dong Arch

Iraqi Dihedral 5.10+
Dihedral Bypass 5.9

The Easy Way Up

Submarine Bunker
Slick Willy Wall

2.B. Grand Central Belay Station Routes (all start one pitch up at GCBS on the Central Upper Wall).

Grandma Buttons 5.8 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Grandpappy
Lichen Us
Gutenberger Wall Direct
River Daughter 5.8 R II

3. West Routes (all use the west approach)

3.A. River Level West Routes
Trout Fishing in America
Chicken Wire

3.B. West Upper Wall Routes

Grizzly Green 5.9 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Right Up the Line
Gutenberger's Wall
Gutenberger Edge

Getting There 

There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.

The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.

Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.

bob branscomb

Climbing Season

For the Cosumnes River Gorge area.

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gutenberger Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gutenberger Wall:
The Easy Way Up   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Dihedral Bypass   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Got Gas?   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lichen Us   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gutenberger Wall

Featured Route For Gutenberger Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Gutenburger Edge is the rightmost in the photo, mo...

Gutenberger Edge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Gutenberger Wall
A variant of the second pitch of Gutenberger Wall. After climbing the easy fifth class pitch 1 of Gutenberger Wall, trend right for pitch two and the rock will feature square cut edges on the flakes, rather that the smoother dishes found on the Wall route. Protects with 2 or 3 bolts about 30 feet apart on easy terrain. Rappel down the route with one 60m rope (chains are every 25 m or so)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Gutenberger Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Walking toward the climbing areas.
Walking toward the climbing areas.
Rock Climbing Photo: Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cos...
BETA PHOTO: Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cos...
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the current routes on The Iraqi Wall.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the current routes on The Iraqi Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking left (east) on Gutenberger Wall.
Looking left (east) on Gutenberger Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck'...
BETA PHOTO: View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck'...
Rock Climbing Photo: General view of the wall.
General view of the wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dihedral Bypass roof.
BETA PHOTO: Dihedral Bypass roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing ...
BETA PHOTO: The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gutenberger Wall
BETA PHOTO: Gutenberger Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Iraqi Wall (Left), Iraqi Dihedral (Center), and Lo...
BETA PHOTO: Iraqi Wall (Left), Iraqi Dihedral (Center), and Lo...

Comments on Gutenberger Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Umber
From: Rohnert Park, Ca
Apr 10, 2008
I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing.
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 12, 2009
There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.
By justin01
Dec 10, 2011
We pulled the pin on the last pitch of the 5.7 direct. Just thought you all would like to know. My wife pulled it out with her fingers. Just above I got a decent yellow or orange tcu (can't remember). FYI. The pin was half buried and had a horizontal crack at the edge after we pulled it out.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
Feb 25, 2013
The highline routes that have gone up since (at least?) 2011 have had a collateral benefit for us rock climbers. Now the rightmost sport lines on the Gutenberger Wall basically have an extra pitch. Instead of slogging up to the ledge mentioned in the guidebook and the older descriptions here on MP, you can leave the moss and dirt for a lower ledge system - about the same elevation as Grand Central, from what little I could see, and maybe 30 feet below the last rap station - and clip the multitude of highline bolts to belay your leader up a low angle, very mellow warm up pitch.

There, just added a photo showing bodies on the new starting ledge.

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