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|Submitted By:||Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008|
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|Comments on Gutenberger Wall||Add Comment|
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By Dan Umber
From: Rohnert Park, Ca
Apr 10, 2008
|I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing.|
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 12, 2009
There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.
Dec 10, 2011
|We pulled the pin on the last pitch of the 5.7 direct. Just thought you all would like to know. My wife pulled it out with her fingers. Just above I got a decent yellow or orange tcu (can't remember). FYI. The pin was half buried and had a horizontal crack at the edge after we pulled it out.|
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013
The highline routes that have gone up since (at least?) 2011 have had a collateral benefit for us rock climbers. Now the rightmost sport lines on the Gutenberger Wall basically have an extra pitch. Instead of slogging up to the ledge mentioned in the guidebook and the older descriptions here on MP, you can leave the moss and dirt for a lower ledge system - about the same elevation as Grand Central, from what little I could see, and maybe 30 feet below the last rap station - and clip the multitude of highline bolts to belay your leader up a low angle, very mellow warm up pitch.
There, just added a photo showing bodies on the new starting ledge.