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The Cube
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Gutbuster 

Gutbuster 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Guerrieri and Brown, 1995
Season: late spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 811
Submitted By: Rob Kepley on Jun 11, 2006
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Gut Buster climbs through the tightly clustered se...

Description 

Not to worry, abs of steel are not required to climb this route. Climb and layback thru a couple of small roofs clipping two bolts along the way (10+). At the final roof, reach high for a bolt before deciphering the crux section. This is where your "onsighting" skills are put to the test. Power up using hidden incuts and sidepulls with poor feet to an undercling. Once here, it's still quite strenuous and balancy. Move up and left using small crimps and sidepulls past two more bolts until you reach a welcome handcrack. Continue up on easier moves to the anchors. Note, according to Gillett's guide, at the third bolt one can either move left or right to get thru the crux section. You decide for yourself. A nicely bolted, high quality route!


Location 

The Cube, West side


Protection 

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Optional #1.5 Friend after last bolt.



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