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Guppy S 
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Guppy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: D.Mabe, 3/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 18,604
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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BETA PHOTO: Climber on Guppy at Creekside buttress, Brennivin ...

Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description).

Chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lower or rap exactly 35m back to the pod. A 60m rope will certainly not make it. If you are careful when you pull the rope, it won't get wet... the tyrol line and pine tree will catch most of it.

Guppy is a long fun route with superb stone, huge positive holds, and consistent climbing!

Protection 

13 protection bolts. 2-bolt lowering anchor. A 70m rope or 2 shorter ropes are needed for the rappel.


Photos of Guppy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: South Creek Side Wall:  F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.  ...
BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall: F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric 3/4ths of the way up on a summer afternoon in...
Eric 3/4ths of the way up on a summer afternoon in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back to the road, showing the tyrolean tra...
BETA PHOTO: Looking back to the road, showing the tyrolean tra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me belaying lil sis up Guppy.  Notice that I'm 10 ...
BETA PHOTO: Me belaying lil sis up Guppy. Notice that I'm 10 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the creek.
Crossing the creek.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bringing up the second in February.
Bringing up the second in February.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking straight down Guppy, 10-26-08.
BETA PHOTO: Looking straight down Guppy, 10-26-08.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Guppy.
Climbers on Guppy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber approaching the crux.
Climber approaching the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dayna on her way up Guppy.
Dayna on her way up Guppy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the Guppy!
Climbing the Guppy!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of this long route.
Nearing the top of this long route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Butt shot of me starting up Guppy from the pod.
Butt shot of me starting up Guppy from the pod.

Comments on Guppy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2016
By Jerome Stiller
From: Golden CO
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Yup, what Darren said. Great route, fun climbing all the way, I thought fairly easy for a .9 but not over-bolted, some spicey almost run-outs on the easier sections. Bolts are brand new and placed with either loving care or extreme obsessiveness - take your pick!
By Kim
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is another great route! Absolutely no harder than 5.9 and well worth the trip across the tyrol. Good times!
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 4, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

A very fun route. I'd give it 4 stars if it was done on gear...which it easily could have been. But it's CCC. What else is new?
By adampeters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

J. my suggestion is that you take your rack across the tyro and do the route on gear. Just because there are bolts there doesn't mean you have to clip them. While you are over there give Crackside a go, it is a trad route to the right of Guppy. Trad is Rad!
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

That would be a good idea and certainly one I would never have thought of!

Truth be told this is an excellent route, I highly recommend it to any one that rock climbs! However it could have been an absolutely stellar trad line. Should the bolts be pulled? NO WAY!! My reason for the comment is that on a crag with 2 previously established trad lines, why bolt one that would have been a classic trad line? Just food for thought for future route developers.
By Kaner
From: Eagle
Aug 28, 2007

60m rope IS NOT LONG ENOUGH to get you back to the pod. Be careful out there kiddos.
Sketchily yours,
Ryan
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Jun 14, 2008

This is how moderate sport routes should be. Great rock, fun moves, excellent equipping. Well worth the effort no matter what grade you climb!
By Buff Johnson
Oct 25, 2009

Fun line, best to bring a 70.
By Craig Quincy
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Brilliant route on perfect rock.
By Jonathan Reeves
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 6, 2011

Hands down one of the best 5.8 climbs I have ever seen.
By Chip Loomis
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

70 meter rope is a must!
By Sylvia
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Love this route especially the 'approach' across the creek. This is beautiful on a sunny day though it is a very long route for a one pitch.
By Don Ferris
From: Eldorado Springs
Oct 12, 2013

Great route. I'd say it's an even 31 meters from the belay pod. Put your belay device at the end of your PAS and you'll make it into the belay pod with a 60m, just pay attention.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 4, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of the best 5.8s you'll climb anywhere.
By Andrew Christian
Jul 19, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent route, best single pitch 5.8 I've ever been a part of. Shade after 4pm, even in summer.

Your rope must be at least 70m! Pulling the rope to the far side of the tyrol may help it from winding up in the water. Use lockers on the tyrol to prevent all 3 of the ropes getting caught in one gate.

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