Guppy 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | D.Mabe, 3/05 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall:
F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.
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Description Guppy is the right of two routes that start from the belay pod above the small pine on the south-facing Creek Side Wall, east side of tunnel 6. Approach by tyrol from cottonwood tree (see comments under Creek Side Area description).
Chase several bolts up to a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral. Pull right around the dihedral and continue up past a small roof, and finish up the black rounded arete and the anchors. Lower or rap exactly 35m back to the pod. A 60m rope will certainly not make it. If you are careful when you pull the rope, it won't get wet... the tyrol line and pine tree will catch most of it.
Guppy is a long fun route with superb stone, huge positive holds, and consistent climbing!
Protection 13 protection bolts. 2-bolt lowering anchor. A 70m rope or 2 shorter ropes are needed for the rappel.
Butt shot of me starting up Guppy from the pod.
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Nearing the top of this long route.
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BETA PHOTO: Me belaying lil sis up Guppy. Notice that I'm 10 ...
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Dayna on her way up Guppy.
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Climber approaching the crux.
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Climbers on Guppy.
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BETA PHOTO: Climber on Guppy at Creekside buttress, Brennivin ...
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BETA PHOTO: Looking straight down Guppy, 10-26-08.
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BETA PHOTO: Looking back to the road, showing the tyrolean tra...
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Bringing up the second in February.
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By Jerome Stiller
From: Golden CO
May 18, 2005
rating: 5.9-
| Yup, what Darren said. Great route, fun climbing all the way, I thought fairly easy for a .9 but not over-bolted, some spicey almost run-outs on the easier sections. Bolts are brand new and placed with either loving care or extreme obsessiveness - take your pick! |
By Kim
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.9
| This is another great route! Absolutely no harder than 5.9 and well worth the trip across the tyrol. Good times! |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 4, 2007
rating: 5.8-
| A very fun route. I'd give it 4 stars if it was done on gear...which it easily could have been. But it's CCC. What else is new? |
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.8
| J. my suggestion is that you take your rack across the tyro and do the route on gear. Just because there are bolts there doesn't mean you have to clip them. While you are over there give Crackside a go, it is a trad route to the right of Guppy. Trad is Rad! |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.8-
| That would be a good idea and certainly one I would never have thought of!
Truth be told this is an excellent route, I highly recommend it to any one that rock climbs! However it could have been an absolutely stellar trad line. Should the bolts be pulled? NO WAY!! My reason for the comment is that on a crag with 2 previously established trad lines, why bolt one that would have been a classic trad line? Just food for thought for future route developers. |
By Kaner
From: Eagle
Aug 28, 2007
| 60m rope IS NOT LONG ENOUGH to get you back to the pod. Be careful out there kiddos.
Sketchily yours,
Ryan |
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 14, 2008
| This is how moderate sport routes should be. Great rock, fun moves, excellent equipping. Well worth the effort no matter what grade you climb! |
By Craig Quincy
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| Brilliant route on perfect rock. |
By Jonathan Reeves
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 6, 2011
| Hands down one of the best 5.8 climbs I have ever seen. |
By Chip Loomis
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| 70 meter rope is a must! |
By Sylvia
From: Colorado
Jun 2, 2012
rating: 5.8-
| Love this route especially the 'approach' across the creek. This is beautiful on a sunny day though it is a very long route for a one pitch. |
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