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Guppie 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Lewis & Brian Ketron - 1998
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Shawn taking a good rest before starting the crux.

Description 

Guppie starts on the darker rock and goes up easier terrain to a great resting stance before angling to about 100 degrees through the crux and then go back to vertical. The crux is probably about 2/3 of the way up (although the finish can be hard if you get too pumped lower down).

Location 

Right end of the wall.

Protection 

Well bolted.


Photos of Guppie Slideshow Add Photo
Shawn mid crux.
Shawn mid crux.
Crux! Just before falling...
Crux! Just before falling...

Comments on Guppie Add Comment
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By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Mar 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very fun route on good holds although the vertical slot can tweak the left pinky if you clip off it. A nice warmup for the harder routes or a fun project if near your limit.
By derek craig
Jan 7, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is definitely steeper than 100 degrees at the crux and it never goes back to vertical--it stays overhanging till you clip the chains... Super fun climbing on great rock!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2012

I agree with Yevquest, I remember trying to send the route and nearly broke my finger off on one of the pocket holds. I did manage to send it but my finger was sore for a few days. That one hold can be tendon tweaky so just be careful. If you do the route you'll know what I am talking about. I jammed my finger in it and literally got it stuck for a second(couldn't get it out). Great warmup for surfer rosa and nemo which are right next door. This crag is awesome for potrero!!!