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Gunsmoke 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Long '80 , First Flash Steve Byrne mid 80's
Season: seasonal closures
Page Views: 902
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 3, 2007
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Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Below the Sorcerer corner is a right arching flake 1 pitch off the ground. To access, climb the first pitch of Witblitz to belay at base of crack (easy 5th class). Wide lie backing leads to much more serious under-clinging.

JL said on supertopo:
"Lynn (Hill) got up the lyback at the bottom and up to the arch before she ran out of light. We left the gear and returned the next morning. This was just when Friends had first come out and we only had a couple - I think only one big one that would fit in the arch.

Lynn and I kept yo-yoing up to and out that arch and hanging on for dear life and trying to wiggle hexes in and backtracking because we were afraid of lowering off or falling onto the sketchy pro. Must have muscled out and back along that arch like five times before finally going (quite a ways) for it off Hexes I was sorta wondering about.

We had a third guy (Keith C.) who followed and pinged, ripped the last two Hexes and shot into a tremendous sideways whipper -the wall is pretty steep there. The arch wasn't nearly as bad as trying to wiggle in those hexes. That was truly a Gunsmoker."

Steve Byrne had said "if you run out the last 35 feet it is only 5.11+"


Location 

Center of Granite Mountain, below the obvious Sorcerer streaked corner. Descend rappelling from Sorcerer's belay


Protection 

2"-5", the more the merrier



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