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South Peak - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
A Better Way T 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Bite, The T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Breakneck Direct T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
By Pass T 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree T 
Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Vegetable Variation T 
Ecstasy Junior - Variation: Traverse Pitch T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Gert's Grungy Gulley T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Heartburn T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Kosher Critter T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 
Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Roof Traverse T 
Roof Traverse - Variation: Dirty Hairy T 
Scrambled Leggs T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

Gunsight to South Peak Direct 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Chris Scordoes and party
Page Views: 11,606
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Exposure even from the start.


From Gunsight Notch, climb the arete towards the South Peak until you are able to move onto the East Face on thin flakes. Climb around the Gryphon's Beak and finish on the regular Gunsight to South Peak route. Great exposure for a 5.4!


Start at the Gunsight Notch. You can climb Banana and Debbie, scramble up ledges on the west side, or take the trail up the east side to Upper Broadway and scramble a short 5.0 to gain the notch. To descend use the standard South Peak rappel routes.


Standard Seneca Rack, eats passive pro.

Photos of Gunsight to South Peak Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Major Seneca features to aid in locating routes
BETA PHOTO: Major Seneca features to aid in locating routes
Go left from here.
Go left from here.
Windy day in the notch.
Windy day in the notch.
Mike following
Mike following
Bryce topping out on Gunsight.
Bryce topping out on Gunsight.

Comments on Gunsight to South Peak Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb is really on the east face. I would rate it 5.6 I would say Candy Corner and Critter Crack are very comparable in rating. This climb scared me more then Castor, which is a 5.10, the first time I climbed it. Be ready for some of the best exposure in the East.
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