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Dan Hilden aiding the short (easily avoidable) pen...
This route is the complete N->S traverse of the range, summiting the Northeast, North, Middle, and South peaks. The route will require carrying over, likely with ice axes and crampons. It begins and end on glaciers, although for us it began on the Chickamin and ended on the Blue Glacier. Most of the climbing is in the 5.9 range.
To find the start of where we began, just walk along the Chickamin Glacier to the north, well past the NE peak, and you almost get to where a dirty gulley of bad rock more or less ends the ridgeline's continuous run. At this point you can tell that the top of the ridge will be a pitch from the snow. We did a pitch that began off large squarish blocks, just to the right of this broken dike/gulley.
Double rack of cams from yellow Alien to gold camalot. Single #3, #4, single finger/tips cams, and a set of nuts.
The Golden Headwall pitch
May 20, 2010
Mike Layton and Wayne Wallace repeated the route in the summer of 2009. They avoided the point of aid and felt like there might not have even been anything harder than 5.9
Sounds like they had fun though!