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|Submitted By: ||John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006|
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Early cast of Gunnison characters that put up some...
Gunnison is a city of about 5000 people and is located at the bottom of several valleys. Due to its location, cold air in all the valleys settles into Gunnison at night, making it one of the coldest places in Colorado if not the States.
In this area is a great variety of climbing opportunities ranging from short cragging to some of the longest rock routes in the state. In fact, the only grade VI routes in Colorado are located here.
West of the town of Gunnison is the The Black Canyon of Guninson or "The Black" as it is affectionately referred to, and is Colorado's big wall climbing destination. Land here is a combination of private, state, BLM, and federal land. Take this into consideration if you go exploring, since some locals do not take kindly to uninvited crossing of their property. Tires have been known to be slashed, cars ticketed, and climbers escorted off private land.
"The Black" is as deep as 2700 ft at its greatest depth. There are no other canyon in the country that has the same depth relative to its width as The Black and and hence it is located in the Black Canyon of Gunnison National Park. The visitor guide has helpful information if you are visiting it for the first time.
Gunnison is located on US 50 in the SW part of the state. From the east, you can drive from US 285 to US 50 over Monarch Pass (11,000ft) and drop down into the town of Gunnison. Directions from there depend upon the exact area. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison lies W of Gunnison along US 50 for the South Rim and off CO Hwy 92 for the North Rim. From the Denver Metro area it is 4 plus hours to Gunnison. From the West, you can access US 50 from Montrose via US 50 from the N and US 550 (the Million Dollar Hwy) from the S. From Montrose, it is an hour plus to Gunnison.
Map of the area
507 Total Routes
['4 Stars',95],['3 Stars',217],['2 Stars',135],['1 Star',44],['Bomb',3]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gunnison:
Featured Route For Gunnison
News and Events For Gunnison
Latest Regional Forum Messages
These guys were hard core! John Pearson, J... The Tune Up crew.
Photo courtesy of Dave Meyer,
Scotty Gilbert, Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry. Co...
Early Gunnison Crazies (same day as pyramid above)... More unclimbed rock in the West Elks. Another view of the face on Gothic.
Doug Scott under Middle Cathedral. A man who reall... Gilby and the Newbs. Photo courtesy of the Jim New... Unclimbed (most likely!) rock in Mill Creek Canyon...
John Pearson showing the 70s version of multi-task... A synopsis from the secretary of the WSC Climbing ...
We still 'get wild' in Gunnison in 2009, especiall... Brittney Jeck on the left side of the Tiger Wall. Talk about a motley crew. Gunnisons best and brigh...
Conley, Newberry and Gilbert Early hard cores who ... The Western State College Mountain Rescue Team.
flower at the rim The Western State Climbing Team, created in 2009. ... More members of the Peaceful Warriors, showing som...
Some members of Gunnison's youth climbing team, th... Chad Jukes, amputee climber, at Hartmans for 24 Ho... Crawford Needle driving from the Black Canyon.
The CB/Gunnison Stage Race from BITD.
An boulder we refer to as Duffy's Aretes, because ...
Then Gunnison local Doug Scott in Yosemite.
Jim Nigro, Gunnison hardman paying attention to th...
Poster design for the Black Canyon Stage Race in 1...
Shane Niedert up Taylor Canyon.
The face of Gothic seen from near the town.
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
May 4, 2006
Are there any guidebooks with information about sport climbing and/or bouldering near Gunnison and Crested Butte? Where is the nearest limestone with lots in the 5.8-5.11, V0-V6 range? I was looking at the crags near Canon City and they look nice, is that a reasonable drive from Gunnison?
Any info is greatly appreciated.
From: evergreen , co.
May 6, 2006
Hey Joe, Gunnison is a great place to climb. There are a couple of guides out, bouldering the G spot and unknown are both great. If you need a little help, go see Andy at All Sports Replay, he's a good guy and he knows the area. Sorry but gunny doesn't have any limestone, Shelf Road is the closest. Good luck.
|By aaron voreis|
Apr 12, 2007
Rock n Roll Sports in Gunnison (970-641-9150) has FREE climbing guides for most of the local areas including the Ultra Sick God's Crag which features stellar bolt clipping on pocketed tuff from 5.9-5.13+. Rock n Roll also has super beta on the Black Canyon, Taylor, The Point, Spring Creek, tons of Bouldering areas, etc...
Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.
|By John Peterson|
Apr 13, 2007
> Gunnison is the most under-rated climbing area in all of Colorado.
You mean all the routes are super-sandbagged? :-)
Tell Sharp End to get off their ass and print up Leo's book!
|By John Peterson|
Sep 21, 2007
It's finally out. Hundreds of new routes on my todo list now. Congrats to Leo on finally getting the guidebook published!
The book includes all those hardcore sport routes up at God's Crag along with tons of stuff in Taylor and Spring Creek canyons.
|By phil broscovak|
Oct 2, 2007
OK, about time now where do I get a copy here in the backwoods of Boulder?????
|By Lee Jenkins|
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Aug 17, 2008
I climbed at "The Point" near Powderhorn over the weekend and am looking for some beta. There is a new route on the east end of the south face that climbs a roof (1st route you come to). Anyone know what the rating is? I thought it was .10a but it felt way harder!
I was sorry to see that this little Crag was left out of Leo's book (which I own) but can understand that he was busy getting the damn thing published. Thanks Leo for a job well done!
|By Luke Mehall|
From: Durango, Colorado
May 12, 2009
I'd like to extend an invitation for everyone to check out 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, the first 24 hour climbing festival in the west. It will be at Hartmans on the 27th and 28th of June.
Also this same weekend is the Gunnison Loco Motive, Adventure Sport race: 5 miles of kayaking, 26 miles of mountain biking at Hartmans, and a 10k run. (or half that). This is all held in conjunction with the Gunnison River Festival.
Check our website(s) at:
or give me (Luke) a call 970-943-7053 or email: firstname.lastname@example.org
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 11, 2010
I'm going climbing Taylor Canyon next week! It's been twenty years... so fired up! (as Doug would say)
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jun 12, 2010
I'm really jealous, take a run up Dunn's and Left Hand for me.
|By dan humphrey|
Sep 10, 2010
I will be in Gunnison this weekend Sep 11. Anyone around for climbing at Hartman's? Dan (415) 845-7363.
|By phil broscovak|
May 18, 2011
Hey, all you Gunnystoners and Crusted Buteations, HEADS UP! Two remarkable shows at Neptune's. Thur. 5/19 8p Jorge & Joanne Urioste on the Early Days of climbing at Red Rock Nevada AND Fri. 5/20 7p A Tribute to Gunnison's own John (the Gambler) Rosholt.
If you can, try to be there. Check the News or Neptune's site for more info.
|By phil broscovak|
Aug 14, 2013
Hey Gunnistoners & Crusted Butteations, I'm going to be in the area (camping at Granite campground by the 1st buttress) for the next few days. Head up and say hi, and perhaps tie in.