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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 27, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

This has probably been asked 100 times, but here I go... lol... whats the best up to date guide book for the Gunks and where is the best place to get it (online or local)
Cheers!


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By DavidLG
Aug 27, 2012

Purchase the gray covered guide by Dick Williams at Rock & Snow climbing store located in New Paltz, New York. You might find one on Amazon or E-Bay for less money but this is the most detailed up to date book that I know for the Gunks covering the most climbed section of the cliff. There is another one that covers The Near Trapps.


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By Gunks
From Gunks, NY
Aug 28, 2012

I second DavidLG's recommendations. Don't waste your money on other Gunks guidebooks.


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By Alicia Sokolowski
From Brooklyn, NY
Aug 28, 2012
Hanging out waiting for Die Antwoord to come on stage

Agreed, it is the most complete and the topos are great


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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 28, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

So is the gray one for "The Trapps" and the other one for "The Near Trapps" would it ib worth visiting both on a one week trip over there?


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Aug 28, 2012

Theriault wrote:
So is the gray one for "The Trapps" and the other one for "The Near Trapps" would it ib worth visiting both on a one week trip over there?


The Trapps is a more extensive area than the Near Trapps. You can easily spend a week exploring climbs in the Trapps. If you want to do a few classics in the "Nears" and don't want to spring $35 for another guidebook you can get by with using route print-outs from MP.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Aug 28, 2012
Hey there!

I'd say over the course of a week you'd definitely at least want to check out the Nears for a day. There's some fantastic climbing over there.


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By Don MacKenzie
From Seattle, WA
Aug 28, 2012

Start with the Trapps guide and make a run into new paltz mid week if you decide to check out the nears. The dick williams guides are the ones to get, to echo what has already been said.


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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 28, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

Thanks for the info guy's! can't wait to get there!!


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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 28, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

While im on the subject, any good camping spots close by?


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By Drake Pregnall
From Morehead, KY
Aug 28, 2012
Leading up Eat Yourself A Pie 5.8+ at Barkeater in the Adirondacks

The multiple use area is on your left as you head towards the cliffs from new paltz. It's not great, but it's convenient.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Aug 28, 2012
Hey there!

Drake Pregnall wrote:
The multiple use area is on your left as you head towards the cliffs from new paltz. It's not great, but it's convenient.


and free. Of the two commonly used campgrounds (the MUA and Camp Slime right at the beginning of the Nears) the MUA is by far the better one. Stay there.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Aug 28, 2012

I don't mind Camp Slime at all. No amenities (e.g. showers) but if you get a site in the back it tends to be quite quiet, is right near the cliffs, and like the MUA is free. It's near the road but there are enough trees that it feels secluded enough. I usually am able to find a free site on Saturday mornings. MUA would be better if you plan to hang out at night by the site having beers etc.

Don't spend the $35 on the Nears book even if you check it out once. MP printouts and asking fellow climbers in the Nears for directions should suffice.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Aug 28, 2012
Hey there!

Logan Schiff wrote:
I don't mind Camp Slime at all. No amenities (e.g. showers) but if you get a site in the back it tends to be quite quiet, is right near the cliffs, and like the MUA is free. It's near the road but there are enough trees that it feels secluded enough. I usually am able to find a free site on Saturday mornings. MUA would be better if you plan to hang out at night by the site having beers etc. Don't spend the $35 on the Nears book even if you check it out once. MP printouts and asking fellow climbers in the Nears for directions should suffice.



While everything you say is 100% true, the real bummer about Slime is the "No Fires" rule.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Aug 28, 2012

Seth Derr wrote:
While everything you say is 100% true, the real bummer about Slime is the "No Fires" rule.


Good point. I realize now that OP indicated he may be in town for a week. I don't think I'd spend more than a couple days at Slime.


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By Jim Sweeney
Aug 28, 2012

Theriault,

What number grades are you looking to climb?


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By Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
Aug 28, 2012

Gunks wrote:
I second DavidLG's recommendations. Don't waste your money on other Gunks guidebooks.


I was gonna roll in here and troll, but it looks like that horrid Extreme Angles guidebook is gone.

Too bad, I liked climbing Ken's Crack at 5.10b or whatever.


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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 28, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

Jim Sweeney wrote:
Theriault, What number grades are you looking to climb?


any classic from the 5.6 to 5.12+ range


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By Jim Sweeney
Aug 29, 2012

Theriault,

Check your PM's


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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 30, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

I didn't get it, I send you a PM with my Email


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Aug 30, 2012

Well, the Gray book is the best guidebook for sure, but for a first visit, he'll spend a quarter of the time looking for the routes he wants to do, a quarter of the time off route and the rest with a smile on his face.

While extreme angle book is not as good, at least it has pictures and good topos.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Aug 30, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

Theriault wrote:
This has probably been asked 100 times, but here I go... lol... whats the best up to date guide book for the Gunks and where is the best place to get it (online or local) Cheers!


Haha J'ai vu le titre pis j'savais que c'était toi


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Aug 30, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

Logan Schiff wrote:
Don't spend the $35 on the Nears book even if you check it out once. MP printouts and asking fellow climbers in the Nears for directions should suffice.


Yeah and with the new MP database app for your cell, you don't need to print it or have a signal while at the crag. Really awesome.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Aug 30, 2012

Dom wrote:
Yeah and with the new MP database app for your cell, you don't need to print it or have a signal while at the crag. Really awesome.


You don't even need signal?!? I really need to download that app.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Aug 30, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

Logan Schiff wrote:
You don't even need signal?!? I really need to download that app.


Yup as long as you have downloaded the area. In this case, you would have to DL the Gunks preferably when your smartphone is on WIFI. That way you won't have to pay for data. After that, everything is in the database of your phone.

I just used it as a guide for Cannon cliff. It was my topo on Moby Grape and Whitney Gilman.


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By Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Aug 31, 2012
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB

Jim email me at thabiker at hotmail dot com


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