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Gunklandia 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Closed sometimes for Peregrine Nesting
Page Views: 2,330
Submitted By: steitz on Feb 22, 2010
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Charlie working the finger cracks.

Description 

Super fun route with nice finger cracks and footwork to start, moving into easy positive holds. Can be done as two pitches but common to combine in to one. The belay ledge is cozy and spacious, and sets you up well for doing the Variation.

The crux is definitely transitioning right from the finger cracks to get to the little ledge that you can use as the end of pitch 1.

Fun easy climbing. Highly recommended.


Location 

Right next to old town, a large dead log marks the start.

Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.


Protection 

Small and medium nuts.



Photos of Gunklandia Slideshow Add Photo
The starting finger cracks
BETA PHOTO: The starting finger cracks
Charlie Racking up for his lead.
Charlie Racking up for his lead.
some people say the start's the crux, but I definitely think it's transitioning right off the finger cracks
some people say the start's the crux, but I defini...
Comments on Gunklandia Add Comment
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By GMBurns
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

P3 felt WAY harder than 5.7. Not sure if it was the correct place to go, but we did the crack in the corner, between the 5.9 flake above us to the left and the 10ish crack on the face to the right.

By Costigan
Oct 2, 2010

I climbed this route a few weeks ago as well. I felt that the the moves off the ground were quite trivial, but I got smacked around trying to gain the wide crack off the optional pitch one belay ledge. Pitch two (or three) follows a wonderful tradition of New England sandbagging. Overall Gunklandia is great route that left me more than a little humble.....I hung on 5.7 :)

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 25, 2011

I'm confused. Is the pitch 3 chimney part of this route or is that what they call Gunklandia direct?

Anyways the chimney is harder than 5.7. like GMburns said

By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

agreed, the short chimney section was awkward and felt more like a 5.9

By Derek Doucet
Oct 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

No, the Chimney is not Gunklandia Direct. It is the last pitch of Gunklandia. Gunklandia direct is a variation on the first pitch, starting about 20' of the standard start.