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The Precipice
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Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Gunklandia Direct Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Marat just emerging out from the crazy bomb-bay ch...

Description 

A great climb that puts a fun twist on the warm up of Gunklandia.

A little downhill from old town find some discontinuous finger cracks that lead up to Gunklandia proper. Pretty straightforward, it rejoins Gunklandia after that.

Note- the pics for this and Gunklandia are flip-flopped between the pages. Sorry about that.

Location 

Climbers right from Old Town, right there down the hill.


A great resource for this whole area is Acadia, by Jeff Butterfield.

Protection 

A variety of nut sizes and medium to small cams.


Photos of Gunklandia Direct Variation Slideshow Add Photo
You can see the line, along with the crack you can...
BETA PHOTO: You can see the line, along with the crack you can...
getting into the bottom of the climb
getting into the bottom of the climb

Comments on Gunklandia Direct Variation Add Comment
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By Dustin Lagoy
From: Western MA
Jun 10, 2011

From my understanding (but I could be mistaken) this is the actual Gunklandia line. The 5.9 variation is to the first pitch and not here. IMO the short chimney is not as hard as 5.9. Also, using just the crack on the right side of the corner is Emigrant Crack (5.10b).
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

You're right, Dustin; this is the regular second pitch of Gunklandia (and at 5.7 is quite the nice little sandbag). No, it may not be 5.9, but it's close. The "Direct" variation is the discontinous finger crack about ten feet right of the normal start that goes for 20 feet before joining the regular route. It's barely 5.9 and kind of a two-move wonder.