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The historic "official" difficulty grade is 5.6
The historic route description was:
"Climb 3 left of corner, turning the left end of the overhang to ledge, and continue up to another left facing corner capped by 2 overhang. Pass over this directly to a series of small corners facing left to rap/belay station ...
V1: Go up corner and directly over lip of 1st hang."
Nowadays the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts -- see Comments below.
Actually the only Gunks-like thing here is the occurrence of an overhang. The bottom ten feet of the route are very un-Gunkish.
. (between "Girth Hitch the Tree" and "49")
The historic Start description was:
"At small 20 overhang capping a 2 left facing corner."
Bolts -- Years ago there were 6 bolts, but I have not checked to see if that count is still accurate - (anyway the upper section now has two distinct lines of bolts.)
Nov 7, 2012
Now seems to me the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts (as of 2012):
one going mostly to the left of the upper overhang, and the other directly over the upper overhang.
I feel that both are interesting, but the right line is much harder.
Nov 7, 2012
5.8 is what I'd rate this as a sport route.
(If your slab/friction "game" is not up to full power, think about stick-clipping, or at least make sure you get some good spotting).
- because I felt that the slab/friction moves at the start were about as tough as the hardest moves on "Bolt Line" (5.8) at Rumney.
- because I felt like the direct line over the upper overhang about as tough as the harder moves on "Metamorphosis" (5.8) at Rumney.