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Crux Move on Gung Ho
This is the second bolted line left of the Fuzzy Undercling, a line of mostly good pockets rises up and right from the ground to provide a warm up or a pump, depending on your fitness level and skill. A rest can be had before going up to a flatter, less pocketed top section, where a shallow crack with good edges provides the real crux of the route. Crimp and barn-door on the edge of the crack using your footwork to reach the anchor above.
From the left branch of the approach trail you first encounter the "triplet" climbs,Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these there is a huge, wide inset, which just within and on the left side of which, there is a bolted slab, Possum Lips.
5 bolts to a bolted anchor.
Charlie Moore climbing 10-31-10
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Feb 1, 2011
I remember the day I tried this route well. There is a great photo of this climb in John Bronaugh’s second edition guidebook. This was one of the top routes I wanted to do on that particular roadtrip.
I belayed my partner, and then watched two other people climb the route over about two hours. Everyone was getting to the crux, falling, and then working out the crux. We all chatted and exchanged bata. The next try would be a redpoint attempt for all. The entire time they were climbing I was watching their beta and planning how I would do the route. I had never done a 5.12 on my first try before.
Without saying anything to my belayer, I pulled onto the wall. I climbed through the lower sections multitude of pockets swiftly, using the path employed by the other climbers. Suddenly I was at the crux. I clipped the crux bolt low, from an undercling pocket by my feet, rather than from higher on taxing crimps like the others had done.
At that moment everyone at the base of the cliff took notice and went silent. I launched into the crux and I remember cheering from below, but they sounded very far away. Barely hanging in there on the sidepulls and back and forth foot switches, I eyed the finishing ledge. It seemed really far away. My gas tank was empty and my forearms were at red line. In a last ditch effort, I shifted my hips and launched for it with all I had. I brushed the juggy ledge with my fingertips, no other appendages on the wall. I hung there in space for what seemed like forever, then I was suddenly speeding towards earth. I thought “This should not be happening!” The next thing I knew I was on the end of the rope a long ways down. I was told later that I was wind milling my arms and screamed, but I do not remember that. My belayer said he had given me an extra loop of slack because he was sure I would stick it. All went on to redpoint next try I believe.
|By S. Neoh|
Feb 1, 2011
Great story, way better than mine.
Rainy day back in '96, after a warm-up and quick dispatch of Fuzzy, we found ourselves 7th and 8th in line, behind six dudes who were all intent on redpointing their first 5.12 (rated 12a back then). Failure upon failure ensued. We gave up and got on Tissue Tiger instead and quickly learned why there had not been a person on it the past 2 hours. TT is hard! No send.