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Gunboat Diplomacy 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 12/1999
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,964
Submitted By: Josh Squire on Dec 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Lee Hansche lowering off after climbing Gunboat Di...

Description 

Fun and varied climbing with a lot of moves that keep on coming. You can find a lot of rests but there seems to be a few cruxes.

Location 

Scramble up to the ledge and walk almost all the way to the left. RIght before it dips down, look up. Here is the climb.

Protection 

10 bolts.


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 25, 2008

I would break the climbing in to a few different sections due to its varied nature and nice rests in between...
From the ground you are on crimpy tricky moves on schist holds that are, excepet for one nice jug, fairly non-descript... This leads to a ledge where the rock changes to the classic main cliff blocky orange stuff... One hard move in a right facing corner gets you to a nice rest and some blocky crack climbing...Guess what.. Another rest... Then you are pulling back in to schist for some hard low angle face climbing with intricate foot work to get to the Quick Clips...
By Eugene Kwan
Jul 27, 2008

Totally awesome! Kind of reachy...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2008

its always little spooky and weird between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... but fun for sure...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 19, 2008

thanks for the description lee... sounds like a blast!
By S. Neoh
Sep 28, 2013

I got spanked on this one today. Most of it is very good. As my friend Den warned me, the crux is reachy and awkward which I found really powerful for a shortie like me. The slabby section leading to the anchors climbs much better than it looks with a tough move thrown in for good measure.
Oh, that orange right facing corner is really interesting. The way I ended up doing it is quite "traddie". Reach again helps a little here.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Apr 8, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I feel that this climb is super height dependent, but pretty well varied. The true crux is definitely at the technical slab/face at the end. If I had a single word to describe the climb it would probably be unobvious.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Apr 24, 2015

Unobvious is right. This is like Millenium Falcon's evil twin brother.

I had a really great time on this today and I think this route deserves a higher reputation. I struggled to find the right beta at times but I think I could piece it together soon for the send. This is a tough route to onsight. That tiny one-finger pocket right by the third bolt is such a tease...I ended up ignoring it completely.
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
May 1, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Doesn't get the traffic it deserves (I'm not complaining). Perhaps the high degree of funk keeps the hordes away. Unusual climbing for Rumney. Tricky moves interrupted by great rests. Keep your wits about you on your way to the third bolt from the second. It's tricky and I found myself straying way into groundfall territory as I struggled to get situated by the bolt. Safe if you do it right, but I was getting real angry with the bolter until I figured it out.
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