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Gunboat Diplomacy 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,608
Submitted By: Josh Squire on Dec 11, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Lee Hansche lowering off after climbing Gunboat Di...

Description 

Fun and varied climbing with a lot of moves that keep on coming. You can find a lot of rests but there seems to be a few cruxes.


Location 

Scramble up to the ledge and walk almost all the way to the left. RIght before it dips down, look up. Here is the climb.


Protection 

10 bolts.



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 25, 2008

I would break the climbing in to a few different sections due to its varied nature and nice rests in between...
From the ground you are on crimpy tricky moves on schist holds that are, excepet for one nice jug, fairly non-descript... This leads to a ledge where the rock changes to the classic main cliff blocky orange stuff... One hard move in a right facing corner gets you to a nice rest and some blocky crack climbing...Guess what.. Another rest... Then you are pulling back in to schist for some hard low angle face climbing with intricate foot work to get to the Quick Clips...

By Eugene Kwan
Jul 27, 2008

Totally awesome! Kind of reachy...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 12, 2008

its always little spooky and weird between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... but fun for sure...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 19, 2008

thanks for the description lee... sounds like a blast!

By S. Neoh
Sep 28, 2013

I got spanked on this one today. Most of it is very good. As my friend Den warned me, the crux is reachy and awkward which I found really powerful for a shortie like me. The slabby section leading to the anchors climbs much better than it looks with a tough move thrown in for good measure.
Oh, that orange right facing corner is really interesting. The way I ended up doing it is quite "traddie". Reach again helps a little here.