Just below the large dihedral on the right side of The Wasteland is a cluster of routes that converge just below the start of the dihedral. This is the Espresso, Capuccino, Java Creek group. Immediately left of this group is a narrow overlap or roof about seven feet off the ground. Running through the overlap and just left of Espresso is Gun Shy, an excellent line that fires through the blue/grey limestone found on The Beast. The beauty of Gun Shy is that the powerful crux comes right off the deck, in getting over the overlap/roof. Difficulty eases back to very sustained 5.11+ climbing on pockets and rounded open hand pads. This rock greased up very soon after the line was established, and has not improved with use. However, Gun Shy is one of better lines on the wall and is a lot easier on the hands than routes of a similar grade on the left side of the wall. This is an excellent project (for some of us) with good pro that gets a bit more spacey near the top. The only detraction in my mind is the grease factor.
Ten draws and a 50 meter rope.
|By Peggy Sayer|
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Tape the 2 middle fingers on your right hand to protect from the sharp pocket. The opening moves are bouldery and it lets up after the 3rd bolt. This shares the top to Theives, so use the same knee bar beta moving to and resting at the last bolt.