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Working on this short, pumpy route.
This is a strenuous, short layback with a few crimpy moves. Good forearm torch.
The second pitch is about 5.7. It isn't usually climbed, but if parties want to TR Black Arch Arête, the leader can climb this, traverse right, then drop down to the anchors. The second will have to negotiate the same terrain, or pull gear, lower back to the ledge, and walk down around. For those who do this, a 70m rope is required.
P1 30': Climb the vertical crack to the top. Recommend stepping to the right around the small birch at the top.
P2 30': Climb the layback crack on the face left of the anchors.
NOTE: This route lies directly in the bomb zone of ice falling from High & Dry. As such, early season ascents are not recommended. Wait for the ice above to completely fall off before climbing here.
In the Amphitheatre, which lies between the Isobuttress and the Eatin' Tripe & Lichen It buttress. This route is 20' right of Tribulations' start, the obvious vertical crack.
Descent: Either rappel on questionable fixed anchors or downclimb the short start of Tribulations, or finish climbing that latter route to the top and walk off (climber's) left to reach the Diagonal Ramp.
Small to medium cams, small to medium stoppers.
Jay H. igniting his forearms.
Tom Lane shows off his arsenal on Gun Show.
Aug 26, 2012
The first low crux is not just forearm strength, also tricky to make the feet stick. So it's worth taking some time on placing protection before trying the move. I didn't lead it, but here's what I remember from removing the protection:
Hidden inside the upper section of the flary crack is a pocket that takes a cam (? small-medium ?). Then with a long partly-blind reach, my leader placed a stopper (? medium-large ?) higher up - (which then held two falls). I'd guess you do not actually have to be tall to place the high stopper before making the move, but shorter climbers might have to make the crux move without reaching that placement first.
By Jay Harrison
Sep 18, 2012
You are correct: a good stopper can be placed before committing to that first hinky move, at least by a 5'5" leader with a -2 Ape Factor! And I know it can be placed well enough to hold at least 2 falls.
One thing to be careful of is protecting the belayer. The only stance underneath is *directly* underneath. Placing the belay in the bushes uphill or on the rock 8' away works, but then the belayer should be anchored.