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 ADVANCED
Thunder Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backlash S 
Beast in Me, The T 
Concertina S 
Gun Club S 
Let's Make A Deal S 
Loud Noise S 
Momma's Squeeze Box T 
Mushrooms T 
Right Son of Thunder T 
Screamer Crack T 
Super Crack T 
Transcendence S 

Gun Club 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl, April 1989
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 20, 2013

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Dan Osman soloing Gun Club (5.12c), NRG. Photo: Ja...

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Description 

This long face climb, just left of the big corner known as Super Crack, is a good introduction to NRG technical face climbing. Don't let the grade scare you off because none of the individual moves are any harder than 12a. But, they do add up and there are multiple cruxy sections. Bring your fancy footwork and strong fingers to reach the anchors on this one.

On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and video cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it. The crazy thing is that he was doing this while on the climb just below the crux, where a fall could be fatal. His friends not wanting to see Dan die, told him to not worry about it and come down. Dan kept hemming and hawing up there until he cut loose and hiked it to the top.

From what I've read, it sounds like one hell of an insane solo by one crazy, albeit, BOLD man. Rope up, and climb what Dan Osman was crazy enough to do without a safety line.

Location 

Thunder Buttress, just left of Super Crack.

Protection 

10 bolts. Good options for cams to keep the runouts a bit more tame. Bolted anchor.


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