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Morning Glory Wall
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Gumby 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Watts & Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Page Views: 2,965
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
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Description 

What's this? Another fun moderate face climb on the Morning Glory wall? Say it ain't so!

This route starts about 30 feet to the left of the dihedral near Zebra Direct and Light on the Path. Good face climbing on the bottom leads to juggy huecos at the top.


Protection 

4 bolts and a bolted anchor



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By ScottH
Jan 31, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very similar in character to the first part of Gumby. Done this way I would call the route 10b/c.

By KateC
Oct 27, 2008

Perhaps the route has had some equipment changes in the two years since the description was posted? There were more like 7 bolts on this line, with the anchors well near 75 feet above the ground (not 40). The top three bolts linked thin, crimpy, slabby, beautifully delicate climbing with the juggy-monkey heuco-pulling below. Fun!!

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 30, 2009

The extension refered to in the comments above is called Morning Sky and is the natural line.

Gumby bails right on huge jugs to the Zebra Direct anchor to avoid a second crimpy crux higher on the slab.