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The Red Rock
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Gum Cheese 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dentist
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: Just me sitting on top adjusting a pad under the r...

Description 

Far right line. This is almost a gully climb. It has like one 5.6 move (getting off the ground), and then it eases to 5.3 or 5.4. Not a great route

Location 

In the gully on the far right. Rap off.

Protection 

4 bolts. Although it can be led very safely trad.


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By Jon O
From: SLC, UT
Jun 26, 2006

While I wouldn't consider it a super quality or challenging climb, it is a great place to get someone a bit scared of climbing to do a TR. The low angle and numerous, large footholds definitely increase a beginner's confidence. It certainly gets a star for confidence builder.

When clipping the anchors, clip the higher set - maybe not 5.6 to get to, but less drag for a lower or TR.
By Rick Miske
From: Orem, UT
Nov 10, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Bottom was V-easy (touch bouldery). Last 10' two options - left crack, right face (mild exposure). TR from upper (left) anchors reached by trail, there's an anchor there to protect while setting QD's.
By Bugoo
Jul 5, 2008

This route is best done from the lower anchors - but use a long runner so that there is no rope rub. This is definitely not a 5.6 - more like a 5.3. Every foot has a plethra of jugs. Great for taking a new person.
By Jason Lane
From: Provo, UT
Jul 29, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great for learning to trad climb.
By Ammon Hatch
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great to take a beginner on, or a beginner belayer whom you're not comfortable falling on yet. I used the anchors to the left to make it a bit longer.
By colson
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jun 16, 2013

Another lead trainer. The kids also will enjoy this one.