The second route encountered when walking down the gully on Dream Dome's right flank. Climb some slabby but fun rock past several bolts and lower.
This is the SECOND sport climb down from the top, right-most climb. The highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang is Wet Dreams. This climb has nearly the same start, but goes more straight up.
6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Pebby Johns making a big step right at the third b...
Pebby Johns cranking the flake past the fifth bolt...
The upper right end of Dream Dome.
|By Matt Bauman|
Jun 5, 2001
I've done this one a few times and will probably do it again today....very fun, sustained and rated 5.9 in the book....felt like 8+ to me. A perfect yellow Alien can be placed just under the roof to protect until you get the clip above the roof....probably not needed but nice to have just in case. A much better climb than it looks like from the ground (balancy first half and steep juggy second half).....me and my buddy were callin' out, "Jugtacular....Jugariffic...". Just plain fun.
|By Matt Bauman|
Jun 6, 2001
Actually it's not a perfect yellow Alien, it's pretty crappy.... a red Alien might fit better, but it's not really needed unless you feel freaked reaching above the roof to clip the first bolt. This climb seems to be very height-dependent, my partner yesterday is quite a bit shorter than I and she could not reach the holds necessary to turn the roof.....also the crux jug is reachy and probably much harder if you are under 5'10"......I am just over 6' and have no problem reaching all of these holds, so it is much easier for me. Anyway, blah blah blah......a great pitch that is much better than it looks.
|By shad O'Neel|
Jul 23, 2002
I would have to disagree. I did this route for the first time the other day and thought it was pretty lame. I had no problems with any moves in particular, but reached the anchor thinking, hmm, there are better things to with my time.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I really like this route. The start is definitely 5.9, especially for shorter people. It can be done straight up just left of the first bolt, or by moving out well right of the bolt. The middle section of the climb (2nd to 5th bolts) can be done in several ways; the easier line goes to the right of the bolts; the harder line stays on the bolt line or a little to the left. This is a fun, steep climb that can be done several different ways; definitely worth doing and two stars in my book.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 25, 2004
I did this route yesterday, I think it's fun enough to deserve repeat climbs. The crux is the start, and between the fourth and fifth bolts.
|By Michael Kullman|
Sep 20, 2004
Not a bad little route, definitely worth chucking a lap on if you are in the area. It's much nicer than it looks from the ground. I especially liked the second crux bulge near the middle of the climb, good fun.
|By D. Shaw|
Aug 2, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I generally refrain from making comments, but I saw the "5.8" rating and had to. Rating is always subjective, but about 6 of us did it in late July ('06). Most of us have 20 years of traditional climbing experience, but are admittedly not "honed" sport-cragers. So, for what it is worth, we all liked it and relative to 6 other pitches we did in Dream Canyon, would say it is about 5.9+ at the crux, not 5.8. My new book calls it 10a, by the way. If you are waiting to get on another one nearby, it is worth the 10 minutes to do it, though I liked "A Brief History," which is just to the left of it, a bit more.
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
Jul 5, 2007
Anyone know about the bolt line just right of Gully Washer? Fun, slopey climb that feels 5.7ish, it climbs up a series of large eroded pockets.
|By Matt Lundy|
May 12, 2013
Did I miss a bolt? The last 25 feet from the last bolt to the anchors is run-out on 5.5ish terrain. There are maybe some marginal placements in thin cracks.