A beautiful classic ice climb. Climb gradually steepening ice for about 100' till the vertical headwall section. This can be done on the left at 4 or head on at 4+. Use a 60 rope(s) and belay back at the trees.
Walk the tracks until directly under Great Madness. Trudge up hill till you reach the cliff. Turn left and walk along the cliff passing gulley #2 and a long rock wall. A massive, steep ice flow will appear uphill on your right.
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 4, 2010
There is a THIN direct start on the slab beneath the climb that is 3/3+x and a variation that I haven't done that looks great. Variation being Gulley #1.5, there is a distintive 'V' notch on the right at 2/3rds height. Some ice, some snow, some rock will get you to the top, I don't know the grade of this one.
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Feb 4, 2012
Nice climb. Matt Ridder took me up it about a month ago. We were wondering about the direct start which we rapped off after.