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 ADVANCED
South Face - Lower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cinema Gully 
Great Madness 
Gully 1 
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Gully 1 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,841
Submitted By: nhclimber on Jan 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Railroad Tracks to Gully 1 to Cauliflower Gully to...

Description 

A beautiful classic ice climb. Climb gradually steepening ice for about 100' till the vertical headwall section. This can be done on the left at 4 or head on at 4+. Use a 60 rope(s) and belay back at the trees.

Location 

Walk the tracks until directly under Great Madness. Trudge up hill until you reach the cliff. Turn left and walk along the cliff passing gully #2 and a long rock wall. A massive, steep ice flow will appear uphill on your right.

Protection 

Screws


Photos of Gully 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Me climbing Gully #1
Me climbing Gully #1
Gulley 1 from afar
Gulley 1 from afar
Gully #1
BETA PHOTO: Gully #1

Comments on Gully 1 Add Comment
Show which comments
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 4, 2010

There is a THIN direct start on the slab beneath the climb that is 3/3+x and a variation that I haven't done that looks great. Variation being Gully #1.5, there is a distinctive 'V' notch on the right at 2/3rds height. Some ice, some snow, some rock will get you to the top, I don't know the grade of this one.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Feb 4, 2012

Nice climb. Matt Ridder took me up it about a month ago. We were wondering about the direct start which we rapped off after.
By Kurtz
Jan 28, 2015

There is a low-angle ramp (WI 1-2) just to the left that can be used to ascend/descend/bypass.

We found it safer to belay on the right side. Ice falling from the top tends to ricochet unpredictably to the left.
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