||Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||George Bracksieck & Cathy Mallow, 1980? Stettner? Ellingwood? Ormes?|
|Season: ||when you've done the rest|
|Page Views: ||1,884|
|Submitted By: ||Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2006|
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Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck? In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large, right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney. That's the line. This is temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.
Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start. Of course, you will not only be prepared for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats. About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation
. Continue to its top. Rap.
Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route. We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.
Single set of cams to #3.5 Camalot with a few larger, gull whackers, 4 QDs.
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 18, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore.
By George Bracksieck
Jan 3, 2012
I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did, and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos.