2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck? In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large, right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney. That's the line. This is temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.
Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start. Of course, you will not only be prepared for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats. About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. Continue to its top. Rap.
Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route. We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.
I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June, 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos.