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Link the (now) first three bolts of Malmstein
. This bypasses the crux of Vai
. After some initial face climbing, you climb a very fun crack feature to the chains.
This route is at the G3 Wall. Park at the Feline parking lot. Walk down the canyon about a hundred yards.
13 bolts. Use a long runner on the third bolt of Malmstein
and the "first" bolt of Vai
that you clip.
There are two oval biners at the top of Vai
, so no cleaning of anchors is needed.