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Routes in High Bluffs
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101 Slab S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ahab's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Longbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Weirdbeard S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Weirdbeard Original Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cave Dweller S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cthulhu's Reawakening S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gardyloo S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Guilty Pleasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Heart And Home (Memorial Route) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hole in the Hull TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Land Ho! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magellan's Voyage (direct) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Magellan's Voyage (old traverse finish) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Man Overboard TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Me First Eyepatch S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Man's Land S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rated Arrrgh! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sailor Jerry's S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sands of Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Squall Line, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Evan Wisheropp |
| Page Views: | 1,294 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on May 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
This route was an old unfinished and unlisted project that went halfway up the wall and stopped short at a bail biner. The route has finally been continued and is excellent! The route follows some almost runnout climbing on 5.9-5.10 terrain up to a very technical (but well protected) crux sequence on tiny crimps and a minuscule mono.
P1: 100' Climb "No Man's Land" to the second anchor. (Downclimb to titanium bolts)
P2: 100' Climb past 8 bolts of increasing difficulty up to a well protected 5.11 crux heading up and LEFT on the headwall. There are some 11- holds far far right of the bolts that always get chalked up. If you take that detour and fall, it will be a rescue for sure! Stick to the bolts.
P3: 80' Traverse back up and right through 5.9 stemming and over to a 4th class chossy ramp with two bolts.
Descent: Walk off or do two raps down the main wall. 60m rope needed.
Photos
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