Guillotine  5.10a/b

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Dan G0D5H411 on Aug 23, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Approaching the upper crux.

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Description 

Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.

Location 

When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)

Protection 

Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.