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BETA PHOTO: Approaching the upper crux.
Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.
When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)
Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.
|By Michael Z.|
From: Campton, NH
Aug 16, 2011
This was one of the better routes we did on our trip to Otter right up there with A Dare By the Sea!