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BETA PHOTO: Approaching the upper crux.
Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.
When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)
Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.
Laybacking under the roof on Guillotine.
By Michael Z.
Aug 16, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
This was one of the better routes we did on our trip to Otter right up there with A Dare By the Sea!
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013
There was a huge puddle at the base of this route when we did it. Scout it out - you may want to hang your rope so you don't go all the way to the base when you rap in to avoid getting your shoes soaked.
It's an amazing climb, second only to A Dare by the Sea