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El Rito Traditional Area
Routes Sorted
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Big "E", The T 
Bring Me a Bucket T,S 
Cave Woman T 
Chile Verde T 
Commie Pinkos T 
El Faralito T 
Gnarly T 
Guillotine T 
Juniper Direct T 
Juniper Overhang T 
Packrat Dihedral T 
Pedernal Cracks T 
Refritos T 
Senile Superhero T 
Shiitake T 
Shoes for Industry T 
Swollen T 
Techo al Derecho T 
Weapons of Mass Construction T 

Guillotine 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: spring, summer, fall, and warm/dry days in winter
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: scotthsu on Oct 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This interesting route passes under a guillotine-like flake near the top of p1, hence the name.

p1: climbs a shallow depression in the face with some foliage, then up and right through a shallow dihedral with a bush at its base; continue up cracks and then under a flake into the guillotine cave. A 60 m rope will allow you to continue up and left above the flake to a good belay ledge. With a 50 m rope, set a belay at the flake, then scramble up to the ledge to set a belay for p2.

p2: Climb up toward a large red flake and pass between it and a "lollipop" shaped tree on steep protectable rock; continue up cracks to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Chile Verde) or anchor off trees to the right. This pitch is better than p1.

Location 

The start is about 3 m right of the large juniper tree at the base of Refritos. The route is between Refritos (long black streak) and Techo al Derecho. For the descent, hike up and trend left until you see cairns marking the good descent trail that comes down the backside.

Protection 

Trad rack of stoppers and cams to 3", 6-8 double length runners; 60 m rope recommended.


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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb is probably not where shown in Taos Rock. It should be to the right of the area shown in the photo. Since both books adopted Clarks' names, probably that resource is more accurate. Not that it's a big deal; it will still be 5.5-5.6 by any route.

There's a 2-bolt belay station on a good ledge 55m up, not shown on the topo.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 14, 2010

Yes, P2 is indeed better than P1.

P2 passes to climber's left of the lollipop tree, as shown in Gary Clarks topo. I found it hard to make out the red flake.

June 2011 note: A rope measured at 55 meters didn't make it to the bolts without 10 or 15 feet of easy simul-climbing.