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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,363
Submitted By: misterclimberman on Mar 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Guillotine, 5.8

Partially Closed.


Obvious large flake on the left side of the crag, right next to a gully (descent gully). start up akward offwidth, then traverse right on the flake, and finish up akward, but easy, wide crack.


large pro for start and end, medium (2 and 3 camalots) for the traverse, and a few smaller cams.

Photos of Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
My wife finishing the traverse. This is a classic ...
My wife finishing the traverse. This is a classic ...

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By Ladd Raine
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I didn't do the 5.8 finish, I traversed left and finshed with the 5.easy corner. I was still a good time had by all!
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 6, 2008

The start of this route is the crux in my opinion. The offwidth portion takes a nice #3 camalot where you want it so you can save you big gear #3.5+ for the upper easy flake. If you don't have the big gear, you will likely feel comfortable running out the upper easy flake because you can't really fall out of it, you'll see. There's also a piton in there toward the top. There's belay anchors at the top, but you're best off walking off.
By presto
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lots of fun, aesthetic line, and great range of styles in the climbing. Good protection. I agree with Jeremy Steck's comment.

Spoiler beta below:

Crux is at the bottom, use your gear well there. Footwork on the well-featured face keeps the climbing easy. Pin in upper portion can substitute wide gear through the second half. Awkward anchors if TR setup is not well constructed.
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