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Routes in Cascade Canyon
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Attritus T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bat Attack Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Baxter's Pinnacle - North Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blobular Oscillations T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Guide's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Dogs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lower Highway to Heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Perches Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seizure Disorder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Symmetry Crag 4 - Trinity Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teewinot North Gullies Left T WI4+ |
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Vieux Guide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Richard Pownall, Art Gilkey 1948 |
| Page Views: | 36,506 total · 166/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Stayner on Mar 9, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Baxter's Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons
Details
As of May 27, 2014, Baxter's Pinnacle and its southwest descent gully are closed due to an active peregrine falcon aerie. The area is expected to be opened in August. Grand Teton National Park monitors the area every year to determine whether a seasonal raptor closure is necessary.
Description
Guide's Wall is a classic Teton non-summit rock climb. Its moderate grade, quality climbing, easy approach and easy descent all combine to make it an extremely popular route. There are many variations, as well as many nearby short climbs, that allow for a wide range of difficulties.
P1- 120', 5.7: Move to the left shoulder of the ridge. Climb easy rock to a short dihedral with pins. Continue above and end at rap anchors.
P2- 60-70' (short), 5.5-5.7: Either continue up easy 5th-class rock straight above the rap anchor, or move right to a fun 5.7 crack. Both bring you to a large ledge.
P3- 180': This is actually pitches 3 and 4 described in the book. It's easy to link them if attention is paid to rope drag. Anyway, there is another left (west)/right (south) option on this ledge.
WEST: take the big dihedral (5.7) for a full pitch, passing the rap tree in the first 30'. It becomes 5.6 after about 80'.
SOUTH: Move right on the ledge to a large flake with a finger crack above. Climb this pretty crack and pull a 5.7 bulge to a ledge. Belay here or follow the crack to Flake Ledge at 5.6.
P4- 80': A great pitch, no matter what path is taken. Traditionally, the leftmost handcrack is taken at 5.7. The right thin hand/finger crack is wonderful as well. While it is possible to traverse back into the 5.7 crack under the roof, you can also pull it at .10. A small traverse back to the left is required if doing the roof.
P5- 80': All variations funnel into this one, a classic 5.8 dihedral/finger crack lined with plenty of awesome faceholds. An outstanding position! There are a couple of pins.
Descent: Four double-rope raps get you down.
P1- 120', 5.7: Move to the left shoulder of the ridge. Climb easy rock to a short dihedral with pins. Continue above and end at rap anchors.
P2- 60-70' (short), 5.5-5.7: Either continue up easy 5th-class rock straight above the rap anchor, or move right to a fun 5.7 crack. Both bring you to a large ledge.
P3- 180': This is actually pitches 3 and 4 described in the book. It's easy to link them if attention is paid to rope drag. Anyway, there is another left (west)/right (south) option on this ledge.
WEST: take the big dihedral (5.7) for a full pitch, passing the rap tree in the first 30'. It becomes 5.6 after about 80'.
SOUTH: Move right on the ledge to a large flake with a finger crack above. Climb this pretty crack and pull a 5.7 bulge to a ledge. Belay here or follow the crack to Flake Ledge at 5.6.
P4- 80': A great pitch, no matter what path is taken. Traditionally, the leftmost handcrack is taken at 5.7. The right thin hand/finger crack is wonderful as well. While it is possible to traverse back into the 5.7 crack under the roof, you can also pull it at .10. A small traverse back to the left is required if doing the roof.
P5- 80': All variations funnel into this one, a classic 5.8 dihedral/finger crack lined with plenty of awesome faceholds. An outstanding position! There are a couple of pins.
Descent: Four double-rope raps get you down.
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