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 ADVANCED
Lower Mother's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alex's Tower T 
Another Unnamed Route T 
Cow-a-Bunga T 
Cymbeline T 
Fine Line, A T 
Guide's Route T 
Lord of Wisdom, The T 
Mint Jam T 
No Name Route T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Unknown Semi OW T 
Welcoming Party T 
Unsorted Routes:

Guide's Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 670', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: K.C. Baum (solo)
Page Views: 1,784
Submitted By: Troy from Tooele on Apr 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Rappel route in purple. Rappel route in blue is if...

Description 

This routes climbs up a giant arete system directly about lower mothers buttress. The suggested approach pitch to climb to begin this route is "Cowabunga". I would agree with that statment. From here five more excellent pitches grace the route. The rock is solid, and requires all the climbing disciplines. After five pitches, get into hiking/scrabling mode till the last 80' of the buttress. There is a 5.7ish pitch to the summit. I was confused where this pitch was, but I did find it, and here's the best was to explain its location. When you come up from the saddle (looking at the topo on pg 126 in the guidebook), don't look for a straight lined offwidth like that in the drawing. The last pitch starts in a crack that goes up for about 12' then forces you the traverse right via face holds towards a right upwards arching off width. The rest is easy to follow. Rumor at Grand Junction REI is that the upper 1/3 of this route fell off. Do not believe their beta! Fun route, more like a mountaineering ascent after the first 2/3. The leader MUST know how to place directional gear to keep the rope out of loose rock. I wouldn't suggest this route to beginning leaders. Bring helmets.

Protection 

One set of TCUs, one #4 Camalot or #4.5 Camalot, 2 or 3 #3 Camalots, lots of slings.


Photos of Guide's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Route in red taken to the saddle where the good rock ends....
Route in red taken to the saddle where the good ro...
The start of the climbing - this is from the belay marked in Jesse's photo, looking at a short 5.8 section.
The start of the climbing - this is from the belay...
Just pulled the crux.  The easier variation steps left around this move.
Just pulled the crux. The easier variation steps ...

Comments on Guide's Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Jan 19, 2006

Our experience varied considerably from the guidebook description, but rather than go into the details, just take the "adventure" description seriously. Off route? on route? Who cares, just try not to kill your partner. Additionally, the rappel anchors immediately west of this route are a horror show, as of 14 January 2006. This goes especially for the second anchor down which is just a few slings slung over a small, entirely detached flake, precariously perched and weighing in at maybe 200 lbs. Someone needs to replace this setup with bolts, preferably Before someone dies.
By John Peterson
May 5, 2008

What he said. Not a bad route at all but you do have a lot of choss to cross at the top. All real climbing is on decent rock. I wouldn't say it's dangerously loose though - you just need to be a bit careful on the easy ground.

We started on Alex's - the advantage of this is that you can get to the base of the good stuff in 1 pitch.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Apr 28, 2010

The route now has a a bolted rappel. Climb to the saddle before the choss begins. You can either continue up and rappel farther up canyon or, since the good climbing is finished, look down canyon from the saddle and see two bolts on the climber's right side of the chimney/gully. Make a double rope rappel and look for a small ledge outside of the chimney/gully again on climbers right. One more double rappel gets you to the ground.

You can get to the saddle in just over two pitches with a 60m rope. The rock up to this point is pretty solid over all with some decent climbing.
By John Peterson
Oct 13, 2011

The second rap is almost exactly 30m - you can get by with a single rope on it. Very nice descent compared to the old one.