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Mt. Crested Butte
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Guide's Ridge T 
Sunset Ridge  T 

Guide's Ridge 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
Page Views: 2,094
Submitted By: Max Lasky on Nov 11, 2013

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Looking down from the start of the climb... the bo...


In the summer time, you can take the Silver Queen lift up and then head to the ridge from here by crossing over the talus field to the right of the lift. If you are broke like me, you hike up the mountain following the service road aiming for "The Guide's Ridge."


This route can easily be soloed but requires a few exposed 5th class moves. If you are comfortable on easy 5th ridge climbs, this will be cruiser. This thing would eat up gear though, and there are even bolts in a few spots.

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From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Nov 12, 2013

First climbed that (solo) in Fall of 1977, fun! Later that winter, jumped in and skied the chute, miss that place!
By Max Lasky
From: Crested Butte, CO
Apr 1, 2014

Nice, man! Never climbed it when there has been snow up there, but I have heard it goes as a scary mixed climb in the winter. I plan to try and snowboard down hall of fame chute this spring. I'll let you know how it goes.
By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

Soloed this on 8-6-2014. I was in Crested Butte with some family visiting from out of town, normally, I'd have balked at paying $20 for a lift ticket to shorten an approach; however, since my parents paid well, I wasn't going to argue.

From the top of the Silver Queen lift, immediately cut south into a thick patch of pine trees before exiting out onto the talus field. Compared to RMNP talus fields, I found this one to be a bit looser, and even some of the bigger, flat boulders shifted disconcertingly. Regardless, it's a short section. You want to aim for the first ridge line you come across. Once you gain said ridge, it's simply a matter of pointing yourself uphill and going.

The route itself is rather uninspiring. Most of it was no more than 3rd class terrain, and at its most difficult it was still easy 4th class. "Freeway" on the Second Flatiron is rated "Easy 5th Class" and actually feels like it, whereas this route seems more like a steep hike than anything resembling a rock climb. My guess is that the "5.3" grade is primarily due to Crested Butte Mtn. Guides inflating the difficulty on their website to lure in customers.

In hindsight, I wish I had soloed the "Sunset Ridge" to climber's right of the Banana Funnel, from the summit, it appeared to be both more aesthetic and challenging than the Guide's Ridge.

Bottom line, if you're stuck in Crested Butte in the Summer and want something to do to kill time, then by all means, give the route a shot, but in no way is it worth writing home about.
By Phil Berggren
May 30, 2016

Did this the other day. Was wanting a no suffer, short term, low commitment, alpine jaunt in a cool setting to a pointy summit with good views, and it was. Don't go up expecting an actual rock climb, although you cold make a few more moves than I did if you want. Never saw any bolts. Mostly steep scrambling. I found 3 short cruxes, the hardest being close to the top, at and just above the fin section. Not harder than 5.3 but high consequence for a move or two. Dug out the old au cheval at one point. I believe the cool photo in the CB main ticket office of a dude with skis on his back climbing up a narrow slot was taken at the fin section. Bypassed the first crux to the left on a snow ramp and the 2nd crux is a 3 move step. Bum slide descent from just below the summit, then on the boards to ski International to the base. See by Brittany Konsella for some good photos and description.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at ridge from base.
Looking up at ridge from base.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Summit ridge.
Summit ridge.

Rock Climbing Photo: Above the upper crux.
Above the upper crux.
By szgster
Sep 20, 2016

Climbed this on 9/17/16 while in Crested Butte for a long weekend. Found the route mellow as advertised.

A few moves on loose talus to gain the ridge crest (look for the wooden pole as you traverse, we gained the ridge there). The bottom section is mostly long stretches of 3rd class, low angle scrambling with short 4th and low 5th class steps. The upper section has some nice exposure and more sustained 5th class climbing (never harder than very low 5th). Did find a two bolt anchor just below the false summit, the rest were on slung boulders or gear. All in all, a very mellow but enjoyable route.

As others have said, worth doing if you're in CB and want to climb some alpine rock.

FYI: we hiked past a forest service sign just past the lift that indicated "guided parties only past this point".

Rock Climbing Photo: GR is left obvious ridgeline.
GR is left obvious ridgeline.

Rock Climbing Photo: Partner on upper ridge. There are optional "a...
Partner on upper ridge. There are optional "au cheval" moves past a fin.

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