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Old Easy
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Guardian 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 13'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Justin Edl, 2008
Page Views: 932
Submitted By: Justin Edl on May 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a very fun moving problem! Sit start on an ok, tight, flared right hand and a decent left hand sloper on the low cobble. Work your way up the ever thinning crack, using all available features. Finish on the cobbles after the crack peters out. This thing provides an excellent combination of technical jamming with interesting footwork.

Location 

Drive around Old Easy as if going to Desiderata, and when the road forks (one fork to a parking lot with a bathroom and information sign, the other fork goes left and uphill) take the left fork and park in the first pullout on the left. This crack is in the obvious cluster of boulders a couple hundred feet away up toward Old Easy, and is visible from the road.

Protection 

A pad.


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By Justin Edl
May 25, 2008

I saw some chalk about halfway up, so this may have been done before. I did knock a fair bit of exfoliate flakes out of the crucial tips jams in the upper section. If you did it, let me know and I will update appropriately.

There is a bit of exfoliation around the crack right now, but that will go away after a couple more ascents.
By molony
Jul 29, 2008

Justin, that chalk is mine. I saw this thing a while back and just dicked around on it. Didn't climb it by any stretch of the imagination. Nice send though.
By Justin Edl
Jul 29, 2008

Thanks Molony. You should go finish it up. I think the movement on this is just plain cool. Heel hooks, bicycles, deadpoints, and cool static moves, and it all flows together like a gym problem. Highly recommended.