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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Blue Steel 
Clear the Deck 
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Gem, The 
Guardian Saint 
Hands In The Clouds 
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Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro 
Last Rite 
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Scary Canary 
Temporary Like Achilles 
Tubesock Tanline 
Wisdom, The 

Guardian Saint 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Decaria, Matt Segal, Mike Pennings, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: EDJ on Jun 17, 2012
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  • Description 

    This is an excellent full value pitch for the advanced Eldo leader. From a stance (gear) five feet above the small roof that is above the old Star drive (slings) anchor of Saint Eve, climb moderate, left-tending ground and gain ledge of Le Loit's exit pitch. Continue straight up to left-leaning splitter seam (crux). Above the seam, follow more seams straight up the slightly spicy, high angle slab to the upper ramp.


    Approach via Huck Off, The Wisdom, or Saint Eve and set good anchor at nice stance above the small roof just above the old Star drive anchor with slings and fixed wires (Saint Eve anchor).


    Standard double Eldo rack RP-3", add Lowe balls.

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    By EDJ
    Jun 18, 2012

    Super great pitch, the ledge presents a hazard though and this could easily elevate it to a R rating if care is not taken leading up to the crux. The final slab is 5.10 and also requires aptitude and selection of wires to keep it safe. Full value Eldo fun!