|343 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11+ [details]|
|FA: ||Eric Decaria, Matt Segal, Mike Pennings, 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||EDJ on Jun 17, 2012|
This is an excellent full value pitch for the advanced Eldo leader. From a stance (gear) five feet above the small roof that is above the old Star drive (slings) anchor of Saint Eve, climb moderate, left-tending ground and gain ledge of Le Loit's exit pitch. Continue straight up to left-leaning splitter seam (crux). Above the seam, follow more seams straight up the slightly spicy, high angle slab to the upper ramp.
Approach via Huck Off, The Wisdom, or Saint Eve and set good anchor at nice stance above the small roof just above the old Star drive anchor with slings and fixed wires (Saint Eve anchor).
Standard double Eldo rack RP-3", add Lowe balls.
|Comments on Guardian Saint
Jun 18, 2012
Super great pitch, the ledge presents a hazard though and this could easily elevate it to a R rating if care is not taken leading up to the crux. The final slab is 5.10 and also requires aptitude and selection of wires to keep it safe. Full value Eldo fun!