Guardian Saint 5.11+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Eric Decaria, Matt Segal, Mike Pennings, 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | EDJ on Jun 17, 2012 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This is an excellent full value pitch for the advanced Eldo leader. From a stance (gear) five feet above the small roof that is above the old Star drive (slings) anchor of Saint Eve, climb moderate, left-tending ground and gain ledge of Le Loit's exit pitch. Continue straight up to left-leaning splitter seam (crux). Above the seam, follow more seams straight up the slightly spicy, high angle slab to the upper ramp.
Location Approach via Huck Off, The Wisdom, or Saint Eve and set good anchor at nice stance above the small roof just above the old Star drive anchor with slings and fixed wires (Saint Eve anchor).
Protection Standard double Eldo rack RP-3", add Lowe balls.
| Comments on Guardian Saint |
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By EDJ Jun 18, 2012
| Super great pitch, the ledge presents a hazard though and this could easily elevate it to a R rating if care is not taken leading up to the crux. The final slab is 5.10 and also requires aptitude and selection of wires to keep it safe. Full value Eldo fun! |
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