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Lower Leda
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Guardian Angel 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 23, 2008
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Description 

With two distinct cruxes and good climbing between them, Guardian Angel is a fun challenge. The route gets its name from an incident in which a climber took a ground fall from the top and escaped serious injury. NOTE: the first ascent was likely done on gear and later retrobolted, so feel free to break out your rack and skip the bolts if you're a trad leader.

Starting just left of a left-facing corner, climb the face on easy ground to a small roof. Pull the roof (crux) on good holds and continue up the face. A thin crimpy section near the finish provides a second technical crux.


Location 

Starts almost directly across from where the approach trail hits the cliffline, about 15' right of The Up Game.


Protection 

Seven bolts, bolted anchors.



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By Kit Taylor
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Good route, had more trouble finding the 'good holds' on the roof crux (more like a large bulge) than a 5.9 should be, so I give it a 5.10a. Very well protected in this area though so great for burgeoning leaders.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 31, 2011

This is one of my favorite leads at Lower Leda -- quality climbing from top to bottom!

By Jeremy Hand
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Sweet line with reachy moves through a roof and a challenging finish.