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The Big Roof
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Guanos Dios 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Phil & Chuck ??
Season: any
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Jun 1, 2007

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Crux on Guanos...

Description 

Guanos Dios is the harder of the two approaches for Double Time. Boulder up the same slippery slab and set a directional at the base of the thin slightly overhanging crack in an obtuse corner. Work up the feet and pro with a liberal use of stemming liebacking and thin jamming. Once the pro is worked as high as you can and you are stemmed as high as possible with hands crammed into the worst of the jams you will realize it's time for the crux. A very brutishly delicate transition onto the lower angled slab above. Calm yourself as you still have too finish up that slab to the belay.

Location 

Under the Big Roof. Guanos Dios is the obvious thin crack in the over hanging corner / arete that leads up to the Bat Slab.

Protection 

Small to medium wires and what ever you want for the trad anchor under the roof.


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By phil broscovak
Jun 1, 2007

If you find yourself climbing up on the Bat Slab and you find yourself saying hmmm, there sure is a lot of bat crap up here, rest assured it's not like it once was. You can thank Jimmy Newberry for trundling the hanging, guano serac that use to be part of the experience. You should of seen the scramble fest out from under the Big Roof when Newberry sent that ton o turd down. Poor belayer had to just sit there and take it of all the guano luck. Hey wait a minute that was me. Merde!