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Left Hand Wall
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Feels Like Someone Else 
Freelance Tramps (Variation) 
Guanica 
Limbomaniac 
Ovarian Fortitude And Brass Nutz 
Party's Over, The 
Pindering to the Masses 
Resume Builder 
Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat 
Unemployment Line 
Unknown (Right of The Party's Over) 

Guanica 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: P1 Kristina Bergdahl, Nick Martel. 12/2012, P2 Nick Martel, Jackson Bain, 3/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,915
Submitted By: NickMartel on Dec 16, 2011
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Kristina cleaning the bottom of the route and surp...

Description 

Pitch 1: Stem up chimney through a constriction, then the chimney re-widens and then constricts again before a final 20' of water polished slab.

Pitch 2: Continue up 2 tiers of polished slab to ledges then up another chimney section to roof crux, then final 10' of slab to P2 anchors.

Pitch 3: Unprotected (except for the anchors) 20' 4th class up and right on easy but polished slabs to 2 bolt anchors on the the top of the cliff, and walk off to the left. You can also rap in from the top via these anchors.

You can also link the whole thing in 1 long pitch but I don't know if you would be able lower to the anchors atop pitch 1. Best to belay from the top. Both belays are comfortable.

It can also probably be climbed using only the slightly overhanging right wall at around 5.10/11??? and was bolted in such a way as to allow this. 2ed pitch was also bolted so as to allow climbing it without stemming.

Bats can/will fly out of 3 different areas of the route if disturbed which can be quite surprising, but they are harmless and cute!


Location 

Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line".


Protection 

Pitch 1: 7 camouflaged bolts (red, black and white) and chain anchors with hooks. All but the 3ed bolt are on the climbers right/right side of chimney. They are WELL camouflaged and several people have missed bolts so spot as many as you can from the ground. 5 are below the 2ed constriction and 2 are above it on the white water polished slab. It is never more than 10' from one bolt to the next.

Just below the crux you can see a set of chains off maybe 10' to your right. These are the chains of "Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat" not yours. "Guanica" stays in the chimney/water groove the whole way and the pitch 1 anchors are at a fairly big ledge with a bench-like rock formation that you can sit on while you belay if you choose to belay from the top.

Pitch 2: 7 more bolts (unpainted) to 2 bolt anchor with chains.



Photos of Guanica Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down from the third bolt, at the first constriction point
Looking down from the third bolt, at the first con...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 15, 2014
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 19, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

On 11/30/2013 I heard that there were loose blocks on the 2ed pitch of this route. Between 11/30/13 and 1/10/14 Kristina and I went to this area on each of our outdoor climbing days to more thoroughly clean the 2ed pitch. However, because there were frequently other parties in the vicinity we were only able to actually work on cleaning the route on 2 occasions, which is why it took so long for us to finish. At this point I believe that the vast majority of the loose rock on pitch 2 has been removed. We will probably return to clean it one final time but it will not be for a while (after the "lower mountain season" is over). I feel completely confident climbing or belaying on pitch 2. However, if you are still worried about rock fall hitting your belayer there is a second set of anchors a few feet to the right and slightly below the standard anchors at the top of pitch 1, they are much less comfortable as they are a semi-hanging belay, but they are much more protected and are out of the fall line. We intended for these to be the anchors for "Six Bats And A Ringtail Cat", but we eventually moved them about 20 feet lower to address issues of rope drag and difficulty in communicating with your partner on the ground. I have re-installed the hangers which I had removed from the first 3 bolts of pitch 2 and it is once again open.

Have Fun, Be Safe, and WEAR A HELMET!!!

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 16, 2011

We debated whether or not to place a bolt at the crux 2ed constriction. We decided to put it in for peace of mind (even if it is strenuous to clip it) and as such the next bolt is a little bit higher than it would have otherwise been. However, the climbing gets easier above the constriction so if you elect to skip the crux clip the ensuing mild runout is not that bad.

By Matt Juaire
Dec 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Heading there tomorrow, can't wait to give this one a try! I will report back with comments when I return.

By Matt Juaire
Dec 17, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Really good new route! A few very minor run-outs, but nothing too bad and they are in easier parts of the climb. Can't wait to get back out on it another day!

By mherholz
Dec 24, 2011

Nice solid moderate chimney route as long as it's daylight haha. Fun climb and looking forward for second pitch.

By Myk
From: tucson, az
Dec 26, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun climb. Well worth doing. There are 2 bolts above the lip. They are really well camouflaged and kinda hard to find. Climbed past both bolts before I saw them. Nice job on the belay area. I bet you guys could do an awesome job fixing the belay areas around the corner...... Anchors have mussy hooks added to chains.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 31, 2011

Cleaned even more dirt out. One more brushing/cleaning session and it should be spotless. 2 golf ball sized pieces of rock came off too so belayer should still wear a helmet. Changed the hangers to the correct camo colors.

By Tomily
Nov 23, 2012

Climbed this last Sunday. Super fun route. Nice bolts. We didn't notice anything loose. Miss Gulchesque

By Nick Henscheid
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun route! First did it using both sides (.8) then using the right side only (10a).

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 12, 2013

As of 3-2013 this now has a 60' 7 bolt 2ed pitch that goes at 5.8. The 2ed pitch has the same character as the 1st and is recommended. Thanks to Jackson for spending a day hanging out on this getting hit by small falling rocks, and getting P2 done before I left Tucson! BRING HELMETS!!! Enjoy!

By Jason Bowman
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 24, 2013

Fun climb. I think the first is a little more fun, but the second is definitely a worthwhile addition. First pitch is more sustained and the crux is noticeably harder than the crux of the second. Thanks for putting it up. I definitely recommend helmets, and on the second pitch the belayer should use a long leash so they can move around to dodge rocks. I pulled off what I thought was a solid hold but turned into a basketball size projectile. Saw one more large block that wants to break off but did not feel I could safely clean it with a crowd below.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Nov 30, 2013

Jason,
I am VERY sorry you had that experience. We did leave a few larger rock on some of the P2 ledges as we did not feel that we could safely trundle them without the possibility of damaging the hangers on P1. Kristina and I were actually on it this last weekend and did not find anything that was that big and loose but we all probably climb it differently, deeper or less deep in the chimney etc... I will get up there with a backpack and crow bar on a weekday ASAP.
I hope you still had some fun.

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Feb 15, 2014

"Location

Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line"."

Facing the wall, isn't this to the right of Limbomainac? Or maybe I didn't climb Limbomanianc and something else instead. Anyway Guanica is a fun route.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Feb 15, 2014

Brian,
"Guanica" is for sure to the left (down canyon/closer to the road)of "Limbomaniac". You may have climbed "Scorpion King", "Meteor Shower", etc (Forehand Wall)... thinking they were "Limbomaniac", "Unemployment Line", etc (Lefthand Wall proper)... If you were going off the guidebook STL-II it is an easy mistake to make as the Forehand Wall is the the first set of routes you find (3) but are not in the guide book (which shown "Limbomaniac" as the left-most/first route), then as you head farther up-canyon you hit the wall with "Limbomaniac" and "Guanica" etc (Lefthand Wall proper)..., "Guanica" is the chimney to the far left of this sector. Then if you continue around the corner and up the heinous scree you hit the wall of 10's (Backhand Wall), and finally a bit further up the scree are 2 fins of rock, between the two fins on the close side (down canyon side) of the 2ed rock fin is the Tweener Wall with "No Slack At GAC",
Hope it helps.